Menu

Show posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.

Show posts Menu

Messages - ChrisOB

#1
Main Message Board / Factory optional equipment
February 05, 2022, 12:05:12 AM
I would have liked a set of cutlass wrenches but I have a nice sharp thick piece of fiberglass. Was jammed way down in wires, it's the cut out from the panel. I'll use it for something! Also thanks again to Mainesail as always, used his recommendation for this charger.
#2
I need to finally get to this as well, and check the keel stub, rusty washers
#3
I started trying to rebuild the complex curves of my aft cabin floor. It ended up low on the list so have been cruising for a couple years with a white floor back there. Saw these folks at the Annapolis show this year. I am going to send them a template and have them send me a synthetic sheet with 'teak and holly stripes' to put there. Not that yachty but grippy.
#4
Main Message Board / Re: Prop Paint
February 04, 2022, 01:55:20 AM
Moving is good, reverse in the slip I see people do and it looks like a waste but if you are in a cold weather/winter slip its good to run the motor anyways. I find a good way is take a weekend sail and anchor, throw some lines out to hold and just scrub off with a hand brush. Now that I am in Louisiana I am more hesitant than the bahamas/keys. At least I can see the sharks from a distance as opposed to gators with zero vis. *I use the petit zinc paint on my prop and shaft and have not had a significant barnacle on either since i starter using this paint (5+ years).  I have had a couple little ones that look like a pimple but brush off. Maybe the extreme current in the sound mimic'd you "moving" especially if you were on a mooring vs the more stagnant water in the chesse.
#5
Was there a consensus on pex vs the clear braided hose? I am in the process of replacing water heater, sink drains etc. I will do some of the hoses near the pump and starboard seatee tank as they are accessable and worse for wear. The longer lines to head, cockpit shower, bow, and stern tank (yes somehow I have all 3 tanks) will come later. I am not a homeowner so my gut tells me to just use the re-inforced clear tube with SS hose clamps. I understand pex is big in houses, unsure how it handles 10 foot waves and vibration in a harsh environment. I have a tentative plan to cross to the Yucatan if COVID settles down, so I'd prefer robust vs convenient.
#6
Main Message Board / Re: Water Heater ,
January 29, 2022, 12:47:23 AM
If anyone with an older boat is planning to do a water heater replacement I highly recommend removing the sink mine popped out and it has made it much easier. I have a square one on order, not sure if it the raritan was original.
#7
Hi Randy- I recently installed A/C, didn't have before so not a replacement. I went with the 16k webasto and it is performing well. I am also in new orleans and it was great this summer. If you want to take a look I am Andromeda in front of NOYC or message me.
#8
So if I wired it right to the fan terminal block on the fridge, It wouldn't steal amperage that was headed to the compressor fan, it would just draw a little more overall when the system cycles? That sounds like a good solution for me. I have the fridge hardwired to the battery bus bars with a fuse and large cables to avoid the run to the DC panel and back. If I leave the boat for an extended period I turn off the "dial" and then remove the fuse.
#9
I agree with the backing plates, but if you are going to drill and fill the holes with epoxy, the new holes you drill need to be perfect angles. I have a whole box of stanchion bases from Garhauer I was going to use as backing plates, but getting all 4 holes in the plate to line up was hard for me. I ended up just using larger diameter washers.
#10
I Like the fan idea, however D batts are so crazy $. I have ample battery and solar. Maybe could wire a relay for a fan to kick in when compressor kicks, that way the fridge fan and compressor noise happen concurrently. My admiral likes her peace, so I'd rather have more noise sometimes than constant noise. A computer fan would probably fail, maybe something hard wired that's more robust? https://www.amazon.com/TITAN-IP55-Waterproof-Dustproof-Cooling/dp/B0050NPLY2
#11
I refitted with the Rolly Tasker fully battened loose foot Main, 135 roller furler, and asym with sock about 7 years ago. They have treated me quite well. No, they aren't as good as North, Quantum, Ullman, but I have tested them pretty hard and feel for the price they are a good value. If you are crossing the Atlantic, or racing then maybe spend triple on Quantum. If you are replacing halyards, you might want to check your clutches at the same time. I just installed the new Garhauer 14-11S ones under the dodger and am happy (I attempted to clean and rebuild the very old spinlock XT but they were done). Very exciting to get to pick all new stuff for your new boat!
#12
I added a limber hole to the Vee-berth. I have the plastic bow water tank (and the stern, and the port side somehow) so fixing the leaking anchor drain is very hard. It leaks a little if I am taking waves over the bow offshore. I'd like to fix the drain some day, but for now I used my long inspection camera thing that has a stiff wire from the bilge and drilled a tiny inspection hole from vee-berth side. Then once I confirmed clearance with camera, I drilled a 1/2 in limber hole from Vee-berth side. Been working well for a few years and a few thousand miles.
#13
I always take the filter off last, and with a rag I have never dripped on the mount, but the PO's may have.  My 1986 M25 hasn't ticked 2000 yet, we were in the Bahamas for 2 seasons and I think I only burned 100 gallons in the 2 seasons.  The second Bahamas season we did 3 months and 600 miles of travelling and I arrived back in Florida with 5 gallons of Florida diesel on the rail, didn't fuel up once (18 in the tank and 4x6 gals on the rail).  We did burn a lot on the trip down from NY though since we have an older golden retriever so we did a bunch of ICW.  The engine is super smooth at the moment, so I will put other projects ahead of the engine mounts.  I try to use it as little as possible these days anyway.  Speaking of which, I love my Asym, but has anyone fitted a sprit and a CODE-0 on a top down?  That would really make or break that "we are doing 4.6 should we motor" question.  The CODE would make that jump back to 5.7 a lot easier.

EDIT: I have no idea if my mounts are 1986 originals, the boat had 3 PO's to my knowledge (Me since 2013).  "Frog Prince" was active at some point in the Catalina 40+ foot forums, I think he was the owner in the 1990's, and I was able to re-activate his CG documentation number(Yes I changed it all to me, its just easier to not re-submit the measurements).  My cockpit cushions still say Frog Prince on them, and bottom siders got a kick when I told them that when i was ordering a repair kit(they recognized the Frog Prince custom Logo).  Their cushions are designed for 8 years or so and i think i am pushing 20.  I know some of the other PO's are deceased.
#14
It was really just a time issue.  R&R the mounts looks straightforward enough, but I didn't have time to start that project.  Most of the work I did was further aft, and the only work I would have to duplicate if I choose to do the mounts is the alignment, which should go quicker next time with less guesswork.  Once I finish the second half of the air conditioning duct work I may revisit it, however I never did settle on exactly which mounts I would purchase.
#15
Main Message Board / Re: Access Panel in Head
November 20, 2020, 12:06:09 PM
Ah thank you.  I would think the offset would be measurement "E" in the photo.  Oddly, these are advertised as 1/2" offset, but the E measurement is listed as 3/8".  I am feeling a little dumb here.