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Messages - NewToTheRoad

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Main Message Board / Re: Mounting buss bars in battery compartment
« on: February 16, 2018, 04:58:22 AM »
The Tech Wiki has some good articles and pics in the Electrical section.  I like this one as it's very comprehensive - check out pics 62-64.  I did something similar for my bus bars, following this article.

good luck!


  Most C34's MK1's that I see out there are 30 - 45K range.  I have seen a few come up for sale in the 20's and yours at 19 is the lowest I have seen.  I agree with the last response.  List out the upgrades that you want to make to turn it into a liveaboard and see where your total shakes out.  Then decide if it's worth it.

   If you think so, and you want the project, you could offer the church $15k contingent on survey.  Get the survey.  Might be around $500.  Not sure where you are but based on how things go you might want to mandate a sea trial as a last step.  All this helps to minimize your risk.  If they take $15k then you have $15K for upgrades and storage right?  Yes it will add up but if you do your own labor it will go a long way.

   I got my C34 last year and the survey came in at $25K.  I paid quite a bit less.  Everything worked and engine had less than 1200 hours.  With a bit of elbow grease she cleaned up nicely.  I had similar leaks port and starboard that the original owner neglected.  They are from the the vent tubes that go up through the stanchions, a common C34 problem that can be fixed by rebedding stanchions.  Had original rigging and 20+ year old sails.  Also very basic like it came from the factory - no battery charger, inverter, refrigeration, heat\ac, autopilot, windlass, radar, gps, or large battery bank.  However, being a day sailor it worked fine for me.  Yours being a liveaboard might mean you need or want many of those things.  I pulled the trigger because I wanted to sail a C#$ NOW - not in 1.5 years.  My thought was that upgrades could come over time, as needed, if ever.

     Regarding your math.  You say you have $26K now but $30K by end of year.  IMO being at $30K almost puts you at striking range for the boats being offered at $35-45K.  So if you pass on this one there will likely be another in the next 1.5 years in better, liveaboard condition.   What about additional boat fund savings during the next 1.5 years prior to moving aboard?  Won't you be able to be adding more $ to your boat fund over that time?  Are you figuring that in?  If so why not get to $35-40k savings and get an upgraded C34, non project boat?  If you don't plan on sailing anyway for the next 1.5 years why not wait and get the C34 that you dreamed of, with much less risk?

    I guess it really comes down to assessing your liveaboard needs, seeing what an upgraded C34 similarly equipped would cost you, and then working back to the church boat from there. 


Main Message Board / Rebedding needed?
« on: October 25, 2017, 07:03:38 AM »
After my first sailing season with the new boat I notice some staining around the chainplate hardware on the deck.  Oddly, in the sunshine it looks more to be a pink color than anything else.  However due to it's proximity and inability to wash off I am thinking it must be rust staining perhaps from water getting underneath.  Maybe it's time to remove, clean, and re-bed with butyl.  I know that the PO had never done that.  Am I on the right track here?


Main Message Board / Re: Spinnaker
« on: October 25, 2017, 03:49:36 AM »
Nice pics!

Main Message Board / Re: bilge hose and check valves
« on: October 11, 2017, 09:29:05 AM »
I went with the vented loop (under galley sink) this spring.  It has worked well all season.  I will be winterizing soon so I imagine I will just put some antifreeze in the bilge and run it through.  Installation was pretty straight forward (I'm an amatuer).  There is a wiki on it including parts needed but I can't find it.  Here is a post,9076.msg65895.html#msg65895

So, i vote for the simplicity and safety of a vented loop.  I use a Rule 3700 and the cheap corrugated Trident 1.5" hose from defender.  Smooth is probably better for flow.

  Good luck. I purchased an '88 last September and have really been enjoying it.  A "good" surveyor should be able to assess all of the most major things.  Take Stu's advice though and do some research into old posts and stickys.  In my experience surveyors will tell you they know Catalinas but nowhere near the knowledge base of this site.  So, you've come to the right place and will be better prepared when you do your survey.  One area that my surveyor missed was the damage done from leaking under the stanchion just above the galley icebox.  In my case, years of leakage (and neglect) caused the galley countertop closest to the hull to be rotted out to where I will have to replace at some point.  While not a deal breaker it could have been a negotiating point.  My understanding is that these stanchions on both sides house vent tubes (from water and holding tanks) and are "known" issues relative to leaks.


Main Message Board / Re: CNG Tank & Refill Question
« on: May 03, 2017, 01:59:47 PM »
As usual you always come thru Stu.  Thanks!

Glad that you could get out on it.  Mine splashed yesterday, but then there's work to get in the way......


Main Message Board / CNG Question
« on: May 03, 2017, 09:22:20 AM »
I have read through a number of posts regarding CNG and venting.  From what I see from Stu and others is that only the regulator needs to be vented.  However, when my boat was surveyed in late 2016 the surveyor stated the following (see below).  Was this incorrect?  Does this not apply because the attached capacity is not greater than 100 cubic feet?  I am assuming that the attached capacity means that of the tanks holding the CNG ????  If that assumption is correct then it would be odd that the surveyor didn't realize that.

I just want to make sure that I get it right.


Location: Under berth/seat in aft cabin (dedicated locker).
Regulator: Yes.
Pressure gauge: Yes.
Shut off valve: Manual at tank.
Ventilation: Into cabin.
ABYC A-22, MARINE COMPRESSED NATURAL GAS (CNG) SYSTEMS requires: "For CNG installations that
include an attached combined capacity of greater than 100 cubic feet (2.8 cubic meters), the cylinders,
and connected valves, regulating equipment, and safety devices shall be located on the exterior of the
boat where escaping gases can flow directly into the atmosphere outside the boat, or the cylinders and
connected devices shall be installed in a dedicated locker. Dedicated lockers shall be vapor tight to the
hull interior, and vented to the open atmosphere outside the boat, and constructed of or lined with
corrosion resistant materials, and equipped with a means to discharge incidental accumulated water.
Dedicated lockers shall be equipped with a cover that opens directly to the atmosphere, and latches
tightly, and is capable of being quickly and conveniently opened without tools, and for operating the
cylinder valves, testing the system for leakage, and viewing the pressure gauge."
Recommend CNG locker comply with ABYC A-22 requirements.

Main Message Board / Tips installing aft cabin Beckson port gaskets
« on: May 01, 2017, 08:09:10 AM »
I spent many hours this past weekend doing this - both the wrong (3+ hrs until I quit) and right (1 hr) ways.  I thought I'd offer some tips from my experience to possibly make it easier for the next sailor. 

The wrong way
Quickly Scan the directions from Beckson and go your own route, thinking how hard could it be.  It took me 3 hours to get one seated, or so I thought.  My thumbs and forefingers still ache.  You will think you have the wrong size.  After testing with a cup of water it leaked into the aft cabin. 

The right way (follow the Beckson directions)
1.  Stretch the new gasket all around its circumference as you would a balloon, being careful at the seam area.
2.  Start by seating the legs of the gasket somewhere between 2 corners. 
3.  Once you get a bit of it seated, bend the gasket part away from the channel (where the leg is seated) so that you can get a your tool to seat the rest of the leg.  You would hear a snap but you will get some feedback that the leg was set in place.  Beckson suggest using a ruler but I used a wooden paint stir stick and it worked great.  The entire leg should go into the channel, especially around the dogs, or you will have leaks.
4.  You will likely still have to stretch along the way and the last corner won't be easy.  when you try and seat that typically another one pulls away.  By stretching and re-seating you will finally get it.
5.  Note:  Back off of the dogs before closing the windows as the new gaskets are not yet compressed.  If you don't you could break the Beckson lenses.

My second gasket took about 45 minutes, then I went back to the first and seated my work from the day before using the stir stick.  No leaks!

note:  You will know when the leg is properly seated as it goes ALL the way in, especially near the dogs and hinges which I couldn't get with my fingers.  If you see parts of it showing and you think it will be ok it will not be.  You will get leaks and the gasket may pull away when opening and closing the port.  The leg is intended to go ALL the way in. 

I was confused when I read the directions about bending the gasket 90 degrees.  I finally figured it was toward the port opening (not perpendicular to the track) and was for the purpose of getting the stir stick to seat it fully in the channel.

Here are a few pics to illustrate.  It should be 1 pic but I couldn't take and do at the same time.

Good luck!


Main Message Board / Re: Snapped Edson pedestal mounting bolt
« on: May 01, 2017, 06:36:26 AM »
Thanks Jim.

Boat splashed before I could fix it and I'm on a mooring, so I may just need to put this off for a while.  What I don't want to do is to create a bigger problem for myself while on a mooring.  My guess is that with the bolt frozen in place it's just as good as if the nut were still on.  And, i don't plan on crossing any oceans soon.

I will update this post with what I do and how it came out.


Main Message Board / Re: Dinette base restoration
« on: April 26, 2017, 02:17:47 PM »
  I don't think your comment was directed at me, but I do see his point.  In my experience you can't really trust the label and there are environmental aspects like humidity and temp, YMMV.  And, also thickness of the formula, and what you cut it with.  I did it in my garage in New England in the winter so the air is pretty dry.  Florida in the summer would be different.  I'm pretty sure the can says recoat in 2 hrs at 72 degrees but my experience was that at 65 degrees it took at least 12 hours.  I also agree with you that the can, or website is a great place to start..

Main Message Board / Re: Dinette base restoration
« on: April 26, 2017, 10:57:41 AM »
I actually finished about 2 months ago and didn't install but a few days ago.  I imagine you are concerned about cure time so my case won't be much help.  They were not tacky at all after 24 hours.  I would have probably waited 48 hours to walk on them.  You can always call Jamestown Distributors.  They are typically very helpful and knowledgeable, especially concerning their own branded product.

Main Message Board / Re: Snapped Edson pedestal mounting bolt
« on: April 24, 2017, 06:36:06 PM »
  Who needs a dremel when a socket wrench shears them off.   :cry4` I wasn't trying to shears them just remove them.  Good idea on the ball pein.  Maybe I can get me one along with some Blast.  Will let you know.

Main Message Board / Re: Snapped Edson pedestal mounting bolt
« on: April 24, 2017, 12:41:40 PM »
Not sure how easily I can soak as it broke off pretty flush to the mounting bracket with no thread exposed.  It almost feels like the bolt was threaded into the bracket, but that can't be the case as these bolts were designed by Edson to be tightened by one person, below deck.  Or should I say designed to be snapped off by said person..

I'm attaching a pic that I pulled off the web (not my boat) showing how the hex heads are recessed in hex shaped holes to allow the tightening from below.  Mine has no rust on the base whatsoever though.  You could never get a wrench or socket around that from above.  Maybe if water was getting in (doubtful) from the bolts then I can get some oil in from the top.

I will try and bang from below a bit more to see if I can dislodge it.

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