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I don't know if "dire" also means "quick" but Catalina direct sells them:

https://www.catalinadirect.com/index.cfm/product/2557/rudder-c-34-c-36brhdpe-unifoil-wing-keels.cfm

I think the factory may still be able to make you one.

More knowledgeable members should correct me if I am wrong but I would be wary of a used rudder.   I think each rudder post was custom drilled for the idiosyncrasies of fitting to it's particular boat.   You may find that on a used rudder the bolt holes may not line up correctly.

Unfortunately we are not using the boat enough to justify the expense anymore.   
So onto the block it must go.   

1988
Wing Keel
Tall Rig.

Asking $45,000.   
Currently located in Tacoma WA.

A malfunctioning injector can cause unburnt fuel to pass through the engine if the injector does not "mist" the fuel adequately.   Since having the work done has the problem gotten better?

Did you change the on engine filter as well as the Racor?   That filter should be the final defense before the injectors.  It would be interesting to know what it's state was.

My understanding is you have three potential areas of concern.

1) Old rubber hoses may not be compatible with Bio diesel.    Depending on the types of oils used to make the bio diesel it can be a fairly strong solvent.   Older rubber fuel hoses may not be compatible with it and they can start to break down.   Internet lore points to about 1993 being the cutoff for problems with hoses in automobiles, I don't know if boat hoses lagged.     

2) The same solvent properties can "clean" your tank of accumulation of old diesel crude.    This crude can then flow down and clog filters and potentially injectors.

3) depending on the blend, some bio diesel that is stored for extended periods will start to have the heavier polymers settle out.   Once again this can lead to clogged filters or injectors or just general rough running of the engine..

If it was 4 years ago, I would have thought you would have seen significant issues by now, are you?     

Last spring I ordered 80' of 7/16 for a 110% jib.    This is the OEM spec, some people like to step up one size to help it grip in the self tailing jaws better.   Personally I haven't had any issues with the 7/16".

As far as I understand, there's no exception to the overtaking rule even if one has restricted maneuverability.  Dissenting opinions welcome!
(a meeting or X-ing situation would be a different story.)

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I always thought that a vessel that was operating with a TSS was exempt from the overtaking rule.   Now that I am actually looking for documentation to back me up though I am finding contradictory information.   For example:

About TSSs:

"(a) This Rule applies to traffic-separation schemes adopted by the Organization, and does not relieve any vessel of her obligation under any other rule."

Seems to be contradicted by:
"The second important point is found in paragraph (j), which clearly states that all craft under 20 metres (or 66 feet in length) must not impede power driven vessels following a traffic lane"

Both quotes are from:.  http://shipofficer.com/so/rule-of-the-road-explained/

On a only slightly related note:.  On Puget Sound I have never heard a ship or tug call out to a pleasure craft on the radio, they do however feel free to use five blasts of their horn quite liberally.    I have luckily never been on the receiving end of that warning.    This contrasts with my experience on the Chesapeake where I have heard radio calls to pleasure craft several times and have unfortunately been on the receiving end of a very terse radio call once.   I don't know if I have ever heard horn signals directed at pleasure craft on the Chesapeake.

So is there any harm in letting the shower drain directly into the bilge?   It seems like it all ends up overboard so it shouldn't matter.

Here is an extension:

http://www.catalinadirect.com/index.cfm/product/2489_751/anchor-roller-long-brc-28-c-30-c-310-c-320-c-34-c-36.cfm

I have no personal experience with it so do not considered me linking to it as a personal endorsement.   To my eye it has always looked a tad flimsy but that is just from viewing it from afar.

As for an upgrade path for anchors that is tricky as it all depends on where when and how you will be anchoring.   I run a Danforth and a Bruce and have never felt I was under equipped.    That said, the Rocna or Manson Supremes seem to be the latest and greatest and they have excellent reputations.  They seem to set far more reliably, quicker and more securely then other designs.  If I hadn't picked up the Bruce second hand from someone here on the board, I would have gone with one of those as my second anchor.

You can see a Rocna on a Mk1 C34 here:  http://kb.rocna.com/kb/Catalina_34

As for a windlass, to me all the added complexity makes it seem not worth it.    But ask me again in ten years and I may very well have changed my tune.    The extra limitation emplaced on me by knee and shoulder issues may make a windlass seem like a very good idea indeed.

Does anyone know if there is any coring in that stringer?   I am not on the boat and I don't remember if the stringer is thick enough to have anything inside.    If it does then drilling out the hole may be a bad idea.

Put a cordless drill with an appropriate sized socket on the shaft bolt.   Open the compressor lever, crank the engine with the drill.  Close the compression lever.   Get everything off quickly and hope you don't have a socket flying through the air at 1800 RPM.   

You should be able to do the same with a socket set ratchet handle on the bolt.

In college we had a Bristol 28 that we had to do this to, after a bit we had a handle custom made for it.

The problem is getting everything off without seriously hurting yourself.   Murphy's law can strike rather severely here.

A much better option is to take Stu's advice and sail it back.

Sounds about right.   Be prepared to replace the rudder post cap (where the emergency tiller goes).    You may have to bust it to get it off.   CD has new ones in stainless.     All of the quadrant bolts have a reputation for being hard to get out.   You may want to test whether yours are easy to turn sooner rather then later.   That way you can soak them in your favorite bolt breaking product if necessary.

Depending on you yards tolerance for digging you may want to consider just having them lift the boat two extra times.   It will save time and your back but at the expense of your wallet.

OK, I think I've got it.   It's nice to know I was doing it completely wrong.

Thanks.

So then when do I use the heat shrink tubing?

When I replaced my bilge pump I wired it up using heat shrink butt connectors along these lines:

https://www.westmarine.com/buy/ancor--heat-shrink-butt-connectors--P009_275_004_003?recordNum=87

I gather instead I should be using this:   

https://www.westmarine.com/buy/ancor--adhesive-lined-heat-shrink-tubing-alt--P009_275_003_003?recordNum=1

with the connection made inside of it.   What am I using to make the connection?   Is it a simple butt connector like this:

https://www.westmarine.com/buy/ancor--22-18-nylon-double-crimp-butt-connectors--16899767?recordNum=38

We really need to entitle threads like this:.  "Hey Braxton, you're doing it wrong".

I apologise for my ignorance here.  I totally get the whole heat shrink tubing part of this.   The fundamental piece that I am missing is what is the actual joint inside the tubing.     How is that being done?