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The Pump outlet is ¾" which runs through ¾" hose through the vented loop and down to the T. The sink drain is all 1" hose down to a ¾"thru hull. So the tightest spot is the vented loop. 

I'll have to look a little harder and trace some hoses. All I recall on the transom is the exhaust and 2 scupper outlets underneath the overhand just above the boot stripe and I believe it is the manual bilge pump at the lowest point in the center of the actual transom.

Was the automatic T'd into the manual pump?

I am in the process of redoing all of the plumbing in my boat. The automatic bilge pump hose runs up to a vented loop behind the galley sink then down to a T in the sink drain line. In my forum reading it sounds like most people have straight shot out to the transom someplace. Was this arrangement typical for the '87? is there any real concern with this set up or should I add a new outlet someplace else well above the water line?

No mods to anchor roller needed.

What was the standard roller on a '90? Does your hatch have the raised part to accommodate the shaft of the anchor?

I am trying to see what will fit on my '87 and if there are any good options without changing out the stem fitting with two tiny rollers.

Eric, I've debated using VHB for the next job, which is the aft, starboard portlight.  On the MK II boats this aft unit is partially over the galley and partially in the rear cabin. This means there is a wide fibreglass area under the acrylic where the transition takes place. This will be a big white chunk that's visible using VHB. Is that the same on Mk I boats? If so how did you address that?

I didn't paint mine but that is a good idea. My windows are a fairly dark tint and you can't really see through them and notice it unless you are up close. Maybe once im fully uncovered and out in the sun I may have a different experience.

It's nice to no longer have the screws. I lined up and taped the old broken windows together and used that to make a template with some 1/4" plywood. cut to rough shape and run a router with a flush trim bit. Then I cleaned the templates up and had something secure to cut the polycarbonate with. My install looked exactly like the photos above.

I just redid mine using 3m VHB tape, I cut new polycarbonate and everything. The whole job was much easier than expected and it came out incredibly well. The worst part was removing and cleaning up the old adhesive. The VHB tape holds incredibly well and then only a little 795 is needed around the edge to seal it so there is no oozing 795 mess inside the boat. My friend did it this way years ago and hasn't had any issues. See this video I followed for guidance https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MQyjxVUskd8

For what its worth so far I replaced my engine mounts last month with the Bushings DF-2205-2. Not a lot of reviews out there about them but that's what a local shop suggested. Good price, exact fit drop in replacement for the original ones. We will see how long they last and if there are any issues. A lot of people recommended the Venus k50 or k75 or a combination of the two in these forums but the sales rep recommended the K40 which was designed for a 3 cylinder engine but it comes with a price tag the others don't.

Thank you all, New boat, never had a diesel, learning a lot.

scgunner you were spot on. I held the glow plug button for 60 seconds and it actually made a stronger attempt. Battery was getting a little tired after all of this so I borrowed one from a friend and she fired right up. Runs beautifully, pumping water and everything. Thank you to everyone for your suggestions, I'll be back with another issue shortly I am sure!

Thanks Ron, I just rebuilt the pump, new impeller, seals, cover plate, o ring for the cover plate. I removed the cover to make sure it was all looking ok still yesterday and seems fine. Who knows...

Decompression is closed, I fiddled with it and tried starting in both positions to make sure I had it right.

Thanks Jon, the lever is all the way forward, I wish it was that easy, Appreciate the suggestions because it could very possibly be something very small and simple like that.

scgunner, a bit was definitely not 60 seconds and likely not 30. I'll check to make sure they are at least getting power and give them more time to do their job. Appreciate the suggestion on the pump as well. Ill remove that plug and see if that helps anything and at least them I will see water coming out when it starts working.

I know this is a topic that has been beat since I have been reading for days but Im stuck so here it is.

I just put my engine back in the boat and it will not start. Turns over no problem but will not start.

I replaced the fuel filter on the engine and bled the system from the knob on top of its housing.
My knurled knob on the side of the high pressure pump is broken off so that took me a minute to figure out but there was enough nub left that today I was able to grab it with pliers if I took the nut off and unscrew it a bit. I actually backed it off enough that fuel poured out with the primary feed pump running. I caught the fuel in a clear cup about 2oz which has a clear yellow tint to it.

I even went as far as cracking the injectors which I know everyone says isn't needed but I'm desperately frustrated. I have fuel flowing through the system and coming out through the return line at this point but the engine still will not start. It was a chilly day, upper 40's so I sat on the glow plug button for a bit, still no change.

Who has suggestions for what else I can check? I really know very little about diesels.

Muffler drain is open to prevent overflow however the raw water pump also isn't pulling anything in. Does this need to be primed after replacement somehow? Boat is on the hard I just have the intake hose in a 5gal bucket at the moment with a garden hose at the ready to replenish the supply but it hasn't sucked a drop.

As a follow up to anyone who stumbles across this in the future. I spoke with the people at general propeller where I bought the bearing who seemed very knowledgable. He said that there is often some inconsistency in the struts and using a little 5200 will take care of it. 5200 felt a little too permanent for me but looking back there was some white residue in the strut when it came out so I bet that's what the PO had done. I used just a couple very small smears of 4200 in the hopes I will hate myself less in the future and a couple set screws. The set screws alone didn't seem to have enough bite and I don't want issues in the spring. It's now a 10 year away problem I hope.

I recently removed the old worn cutlass bearing which was a beast to get out even with a strut pro. I believe there were two set screws on the port side and 1 that I missed on the stbd. The bearing and inside of the strut were full of buildup and I gently cleaned it all up with a wire brush. I just went to put the new bearing in place and it slid in by hand with ease. It is far tighter on the shaft than in the strut so without set screws it is just spinning freely in the strut. Are a couple set screws enough to hold this in place and is this normal? I expected it to be much more of a press fit. Measured with calipers and they are the same size. The old set screws were trash so I drilled them out and re taped the holes... hopefully there's enough meat to hold.

Hi, in my slow moving progress on restoring my boat I have the engine out and am working on new mounts. After getting everything cleaned up I noticed some cracking of the engine beds. From what I have read these are typically oak with gelcoat and maybe a little glass over them? Does that sounds right? Just wondering if this cracking is superficial and nothing to worry about or if I need to grind it all out and reglass it.

https://imgur.com/a/bn7z8cE

Sorry, new to this and figuring out how to post images. see if this works.
1987 Catalina 34
Hull 401

https://imgur.com/a/4Tist6U

Hi,

I pulled my prop shaft to clean things up, replace the cutlass bearing, assess the stuffing box, motor mounts are on the list etc. Unfortunately once the stuffing box came out I found the shaft log completely worn away on the bottom. Honestly I'm a bit surprised it didn't sink. Any insight on repair? Can I just bore it out and epoxy a new one in place or do I need to grind all the glass inside the hull back and re build it up with the new one in place?