Catalina 34

General Activities => Main Message Board => Topic started by: Lance Jones on May 21, 2016, 05:09:28 AM

Title: Broke down - Freshwater Coolant Pump Model and Source
Post by: Lance Jones on May 21, 2016, 05:09:28 AM
We were motoring out when there was a squeal and the motor acted upon. Upon opening the compartment up there was water leaking from the circulating pump and it was not moving well when the motor was running.

Any ideas while I sit here at anchor?
Title: Re: Broke down.
Post by: Ken Juul on May 21, 2016, 10:02:40 AM
Sounds like the bearing in the pump froze.  No repairing that.  Hope you have unlimited towing.
Title: Re: Broke down.
Post by: Lance Jones on May 21, 2016, 10:06:17 AM
Thanks Ken. Yes. We were able to sail in. I figured out that you are correct. Does anyone know where to get one?
Title: Re: Broke down.
Post by: Ken Juul on May 21, 2016, 12:41:32 PM
your local Kubota dealer or Tractor Supply.  IIRC it is a D950 engine, but do a search be be sure.  Easy fix provided the nuts/bolts aren't rusted.  You will need a new gasket also.
Title: Re: Broke down.
Post by: Lance Jones on May 21, 2016, 01:31:33 PM
Located a local Kubota dealer. Parts will be ordered Monday. Again, thanks.
Title: Re: Broke down.
Post by: Paulus on May 22, 2016, 03:54:46 AM
Lance, had the same issue in Erie, PA about 10 years ago.  Ordered thru the local Kubota dealer.  If you need the part # let me know as I am going to the boat on Monday and have it.  Cannot email from the boat as I only have a flip phone but would be happy to call you.
Paul
Title: Re: Broke down.
Post by: Lance Jones on May 22, 2016, 06:04:00 AM
Thanks Paul. I used the m25xp to Kubota d950 manual on this site. The local dealer has the part number and will order it in the morning.
Title: Re: Broke down.
Post by: Steve Wormsbecher on May 22, 2016, 12:21:38 PM
When I did mine it did not come with the water return pipe installed.  I had to order it separately.  That was however, many moons ago.

Steve
Title: Re: Broke down.
Post by: Lance Jones on May 22, 2016, 12:26:17 PM
Thanks Steve! I'll order it just in case!
Title: Re: Broke down.
Post by: KWKloeber on May 23, 2016, 09:22:55 AM
Thanks Paul. I used the m25xp to Kubota d950 manual on this site. The local dealer has the part number and will order it in the morning.

Lance, 

There's a serial number break (Kubota sn, not the Universal sn) where the coolant circulating pump impeller size is different.  i.e., the Universals were all one size pump, but the Kubota used 2 different pumps, depending on the gear cover.  I recall seeing that discussed and with pics (someone got the wrong size) on the wiki, or the net, or SBO.   I DO NOT recall if they provided the correct Kb p/n that fits the Universal engines, but you might want to do a search and see...

Just a guess -- Kb may have discovered that the pump wasn't pulling enough coolant and changed the impeller size and gear cover after "x" serial numbers were produced?
 
Ken
Title: Re: Broke down.
Post by: Paulus on May 23, 2016, 12:15:02 PM
Lance, the local Kubota dealer just used the D950 number and ordered me the part, came with a casket and a new belt.  Perfect fit.
Paul
Title: Re: Broke down.
Post by: KWKloeber on May 23, 2016, 12:21:06 PM
Lance, the local Kubota dealer just used the D950 number and ordered me the part, came with a casket and a new belt.  Perfect fit.
Paul

There's TWO D950 numbers for that pump which part number did the dealer get for you?

kk
Title: Re: Broke down.
Post by: KWKloeber on May 23, 2016, 05:00:22 PM
follow up.....

One pump used on D950 engine was p/n 15531-73030, superseded by current p/n 15552-73034 (replaces 15552-73033, 15552-73030.)

The other pump used on D950 engine was p/n 15752-73030, superseded by current p/n 15534-73030 (replaces p/n 15752-73033, 15752-73032, 15752-73030.)

I don't know (wich I did) the difference between them, and my Kb dealer doesn't either.

Ken
 
Title: Re: Broke down.
Post by: Paulus on May 26, 2016, 10:00:40 AM
Lance, the number for my pump was 15534-73030.  Came with all the parts. 
Paul
Title: Re: Broke down.
Post by: Lance Jones on May 26, 2016, 12:16:25 PM
Thanks all! The pump was installed and working great! Again you rock! BTW, the new pump part reflects that it comes w/of the return pipe attatched.
Title: Re: Broke down.
Post by: KWKloeber on May 26, 2016, 07:40:40 PM
Thanks all! The pump was installed and working great! Again you rock! BTW, the new pump part reflects that it comes w/of the return pipe attatched.

Lance for future reference which p/n did Kb order for you?
 
15552-73034   or 15534-73030

ken
Title: Re: Broke down.
Post by: Lance Jones on May 27, 2016, 04:38:35 AM
I'm out in the Gulf now. I'll look in my truck when I get back.
Title: Re: Broke down.
Post by: Indian Falls on May 30, 2016, 06:13:07 AM
Just found this part number 15534-73030 for 52.64$  Kumar Bros. , they are on ebay , amazon and their own website.   I may as well get one now my pump is original and they don't last forever.  Item is pictured with the water return pipe installed and comes with a gasket.
Thanks for the info it would have taken me hours to dig up that stuff.
Title: Re: Broke down.
Post by: KWKloeber on May 30, 2016, 07:03:36 AM
Just found this part number 15534-73030 for 52.64$  Kumar Bros. , they are on ebay , amazon and their own website.   I may as well get one now my pump is original and they don't last forever.  Item is pictured with the water return pipe installed and comes with a gasket.
Thanks for the info it would have taken me hours to dig up that stuff.

My OEM is 30 Y.O. and going strong!

Just understand that if you're getting a pump for under, say $80, you're buying a gray market knock-off, not a genuine Kubota part.  Regardless of what the advertising says (zero truth in advertising.)

A "Kubota lawn tractor water pump" -- is a Kubota-lawn-tractor, water pump -- not a Kubota-brand, lawn-tractor, water pump.

Ken
Title: Re: Broke down.
Post by: Indian Falls on June 28, 2016, 05:21:11 AM
It's from India.  Only worry is that the bearings are likely the cheapest available in India.
To me its equal to Harley and John Deere parts, a lot of that cost is just for the name.
Title: Re: Broke down - Freshwater Coolant Pump Model and Source
Post by: Stu Jackson on July 15, 2016, 10:33:29 PM
added to tech wiki, under engines

Where else?   :shock:
Title: Re: Broke down - Freshwater Coolant Pump Model and Source
Post by: Breakin Away on November 19, 2018, 08:35:36 PM
Rather than start a new thread, I'll wake this one up since it's already linked in the Wiki.

My situation is a little different from OP's: M35B motor (Kubota V1305 block). I have a very slow leak of coolant from the "weep hole" at the bottom in my freshwater pump. I suspect the bearings are leaking. I'm starting to shop around for replacements in anticipation of replacing it this off-season.

Diesel Parts Direct lists genuine Kubota #16251-73034 ($168). There are a bunch of knock-offs on ebay and Amazon, including the ubiquitous Kumar Bros stuff, for around $50. All try to make it appear like a Kubota pump, but it's obviously a "pump for Kubota". Some call it #16241-73034, or other totally different part numbers.

In addition to concerns over the bearings, I also noted that breakdown pictures on the listings show an impeller that looks like a cheap stamped sheet metal impeller that looks sort of like a cowles blade. The Universal parts list (p. 43 #34, p/n 200825) shows what looks like a spiral-fin casting that would seem to be better quality.

Do any of you have experience with replacing this pump? Is there a recommended dealer with genuine Kubota part for less than $168? Do the cheap knock-offs last? Any idea how outrageous is the cost of the genuine Westerbeke part?

I'll have additional questions as I move forward about various things like how to remove and re-tension the v-belt, since I've never removed it before (on any motor). So I'm totally new at all this.

Also, I'll be asking for recommendations of other things to replace while I have it all apart. I can imagine that coolant hoses may be softening up a bit after 17 years exposure to ethylene glycol.
Title: Re: Broke down - Freshwater Coolant Pump Model and Source
Post by: KWKloeber on November 20, 2018, 12:32:56 AM
Owners I know who installed after-markets like KumarBros havenít had them in service long enough to make any meaningful comparison against OE Kubota.  Obviously someone makes the pump for Kubota (maybe the same source?!?.)

Messicks, a reputable bricknmortar Kb dealer lists that p/n for 141.
Say, 100 difference/17 yrs = $6 yr. Easy decision in my mind if thereís a quality question.

Verify your pump diameter- IIRC there were different size gear covers, depending on the engine mfgr date.

-k
Title: Re: Broke down - Freshwater Coolant Pump Model and Source
Post by: rmbrown on November 28, 2018, 02:40:28 PM
Ken:

re different sized gear covers... can you elaborate?  I bought and installed a new pump a couple of weeks ago.  It fit back together no problem, but I'm wondering if the pump wheel inside might be smaller diameter than intended reducing flow.  It is equivalent to the one I'm replacing but that one might not have been correct either!

Mike
Title: Re: Broke down - Freshwater Coolant Pump Model and Source
Post by: KWKloeber on November 28, 2018, 03:27:48 PM
Not much.  I don't know the diameters.

http://sv-silhouette.blogspot.com/2014/01/the-engine-repair-november-2013.html

Longshots -
 - Try talking to the service gurus at Engines1 (western branch diesel) in VA (caution they are Wb not Kb dealers, so may know only the Univ 35B impeller).
- Pull the different impeller P/Ns (2 sizes, I believe) or complete pump P/Ns off the Kb engine block parts manual (Techwiki site > manuals page) and see if you can find anything on either online. 
- Or try the parts folks at Messicks Kb dealer (but they likely don't know much other than using the Kb engine s/n as to which impeller/pump it takes, probably don't know the exact dimensions.
- last resort, order the later model pump or impeller from Kb and measure it.

k
Title: Re: Broke down - Freshwater Coolant Pump Model and Source
Post by: Breakin Away on November 28, 2018, 06:05:32 PM
Is it possible that Wb specíed a larger impeller than Kb because of all the extra hose to/from the hot water heater? Maybe the late model Kb is still too small?

FWIW, my pump is original (has factory paint) and the pump housing (behind the pulley) is approximately 2Ē dia, which strikes me as pretty small. I donít plan to tear it down to measure the impeller.
Title: Re: Broke down - Freshwater Coolant Pump Model and Source
Post by: KWKloeber on November 28, 2018, 08:44:50 PM
I swore I wasn't going to get involved but here goes anyway......  the only reference I can find to the two different Kb part numbers is a 70mm dia impeller.  But the internet can be wrong, we know 'eh?  The parts manual doesn't list the serial number break between the two.  The couple of forum posts I have seen defo reference a larger impeller, but no dimensions provided.

There's different Kb P/Ns for the two pumps for the "35B block" and different gear cover P/Ns, and different impeller P/Ns.
Messicks appears to have both pumps in stock -- maybe the parts dept would pull them and measure their impeller diameters?

The Wb parts manual shows ONE pump, one impeller for both the XPB and 35B, which I find strange.  Seems the 35B might have a larger pump?
The Kb manual for the "XPB" block shows ONE impeller BUT TWO different pumps delending on the Kb engine serial number. 

Not sure what to make of the above!

What's the issue anyway?  Is the engine overheating?

-ken

Title: Re: Broke down - Freshwater Coolant Pump Model and Source
Post by: Breakin Away on November 29, 2018, 07:00:27 AM
70mm impeller would exceed the diameter I measured for the pump housing. Did I measure the wrong thing?

I can try to get a picture when I return to the boat in a few days.

You mentioned different sized gear covers. What, exactly, is a gear cover?
Title: Re: Broke down - Freshwater Coolant Pump Model and Source
Post by: KWKloeber on November 29, 2018, 08:57:22 AM

What, exactly, is a gear cover?

Brakin, See your parts manual  - the Gear Case Group diagram.

The impeller below is reportedly one of the knock-offs for the Kb "35B" block;  (Internet cautions apply)

(http://c34.org/wiki/images/thumb/a/a6/71-Ce-85CwL._SL1500_.jpg/461px-71-Ce-85CwL._SL1500_.jpg)

-k
Title: Re: Broke down - Freshwater Coolant Pump Model and Source
Post by: KWKloeber on November 29, 2018, 09:11:00 AM
This Kb pump on eBay for the "35B" says "70mm," but unless my eyes are fooling me it looks to be 65,7mm.

(http://c34.org/wiki/images/thumb/c/c9/S-l1600.jpg/400px-S-l1600.jpg)

Perhaps 70mm and 65,7mm those are the two size pumps?

-k
Title: Re: Broke down - Freshwater Coolant Pump Model and Source
Post by: rmbrown on November 30, 2018, 06:40:39 AM
Mine's the M35A.  Here's my old pump.
Title: Re: Broke down - Freshwater Coolant Pump Model and Source
Post by: KWKloeber on November 30, 2018, 07:35:00 AM
Mike:


re different sized gear covers... can you elaborate?  I bought and installed a new pump a couple of weeks ago.  It fit back together no problem, but I'm wondering if the pump wheel inside might be smaller diameter than intended reducing flow.  It is equivalent to the one I'm replacing but that one might not have been correct either!

Mike


That original caution was to Breakin, who has a B series.
The B/non-B series parts have nothing at all to do with each other.  I should have noticed your profile and avoided the fire drill.

There were different gear covers on the non-B engines, but it has to do with two different diameter crankshafts, not a larger water pump.

-k
Title: Re: Broke down - Freshwater Coolant Pump Model and Source
Post by: Breakin Away on December 02, 2018, 06:34:49 AM
Obviously I measured the wrong part of my pump. I did not realize that half of the impeller housing was built into the outside front engine casting.

FWIW, the two top screws are spaced 2-5/8Ē apart. Does that narrow it down a bit?
Title: Re: Broke down - Freshwater Coolant Pump Model and Source
Post by: KWKloeber on December 02, 2018, 11:11:28 AM
The pump housing ( pump land if you want to call it that) is built into the gear cover.

What are we trying to accomplish? Do you think you have the wrong pump? Itís a gray market or Kb? Is there a coolant flow problem?
As I said to Mike, the messicks website shows both part numbers in stock, possibly the parts folks or your local dealer would measure both pumps for you (impeller and bolt separation)?  I donít know the difference between the two gear cover P/Ns, but presumably different impeller/pumps might mate to different size ďpump landsĒ on the covers????

K
Title: Re: Broke down - Freshwater Coolant Pump Model and Source
Post by: Breakin Away on December 02, 2018, 07:21:44 PM
I have not yet purchased a pump. I am still fiddling with hose connections, and placing dry paper at various places to trace the exact origin of my leak before I conclude that it's the pump. I think it's likely the pump, but not ready to pull the trigger yet. My measurements and related questions were intended to ensure I get the correct one when I am ready. Still debating between genuine Wb, genuine Kb, or Indian knockoff.

Thanks for your help.
Title: Re: Broke down - Freshwater Coolant Pump Model and Source
Post by: Breakin Away on December 22, 2018, 02:16:31 PM
Quick update on my status:

Due to two weeks of business travel I haven't done anything except monitor seepage upon my return. There are definitely a few drops per day of coolant coming out somewhere. One small piece of paper towel that I left was saturated (but not dripping) when I returned. The others were completely dry, so I have a general idea where the leak is coming from, but still can't see the exact source. I've decided that I need to remove the water pump pulley to try to get a better look. The pulley's shape appears to be a cup that covers much of the pump bearings, and I have a feeling that the leakage may be going into the cup first before oozing out onto the gear cover. This may also create corrosion problems inside the cup that I should inspect.

I have a few extremely basic questions which I can't find answered on the wiki:
Title: Re: Broke down - Freshwater Coolant Pump Model and Source
Post by: Breakin Away on December 25, 2018, 09:32:17 PM
Hi all, I hope you had a great holiday weekend! Here's a brief update on my prior post.

I was able to remove the water pump pulley without first de-tensioning the belt. I just removed the screws and slid it off the pump. Obviously this did ultimately loosen the belt. Putting it on again will just be a reverse of this process, and as long as the pump is the proper design the belt should have exactly the same tension without the need to adjust the alternator positioning at all.

In cases where the belt tension does not need adjustment, it would seem that this could be a very easy way to accomplish an exact replacement-in-kind with a new belt, if(!) tension adjustment is not needed. I can imagine that as a belt wears and falls deeper into the groove, pulleys need to be tightened, so a new belt might need the pulleys to be loosened a bit. But if you do periodic replacement of belts as a precaution before they become severely worn, you might be able to avoid some headaches by just pulling off the water pump pulley and putting on the new one without adjustment.

Once I removed the pulley I could get a very clear look at the source of the leak. It's definitely losing a drop of coolant every minute or so out the weep hole. I assume that this means the pump's bearings are at end-of-life. Is there any value in rebuilding the current pump, or is it best to just buy a new one?

I'll be calling the Westerbeke dealer to price out a "genuine" replacement, for comparison against the ~$50-70 Indian knockoffs and the $140-170 genuine Kubota part.

I'd still appreciate comments or links to some very basic instructions about how to remove old coolant and replace with new. I'm aware of the need to burp air out of the high points, and actually purchased a radiator pressure tester that could be helpful with this. (I've borrowed one from AutoZone the last few years to do an annual pressure check, but they changed to a different brand that doesn't fit the motor, so I found the compatible one on Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0067UE6IY
Title: Re: Broke down - Freshwater Coolant Pump Model and Source
Post by: KWKloeber on December 26, 2018, 08:15:30 AM
Note that an improperly tensioned belt can shorten the bearing/seal life.
If the bearing is worn enough you may be able to feel wobble in the shaft when rocked side-side/up-down.

I donít see how a radiator pressure tester will help burp but Iím willing to be convinced? Itís  used to pressure test the Hx or other components. .

Why not remove the pump, measure the impeller and order the genuine Kb?  Seems that youíre making it more involved than it might need to be?

Thereís a clicker gauge you can use to check belt tension, in the 101. Or the thumb test.
Havenít needed to tension a B alternator, but a bar or huge screwdriver might work to hold the alt while tightening. Or, thereís tools, homemade and commercial spreaders to hold the pulleys apart. Search (google) on the main page - itís in the forum posts.

Iíve seen folks who rebuild those pumps, but for $70-ish new Kb, why?  It would be a good test though to let us know how long it lasts.

Title: Re: Broke down - Freshwater Coolant Pump Model and Source
Post by: Jon W on December 26, 2018, 09:53:48 AM
NAPA auto parts sells a belt tension tool called the cricket. Easy to use and small so easy to store.
Title: Re: Broke down - Freshwater Coolant Pump Model and Source
Post by: Breakin Away on December 26, 2018, 11:37:19 AM
Iíve seen folks who rebuild those pumps, but for $70-ish new Kb, why?  It would be a good test though to let us know how long it lasts.
At $70 it's a no-brainer to go with genuine Kubota. Please let me know who has it for that price (maybe you?), because I haven't found it anywhere near that price. Thanks!

I have answers for your other questions - will explain when I'm back at my computer with a real keyboard.
Title: Re: Broke down - Freshwater Coolant Pump Model and Source
Post by: KWKloeber on December 26, 2018, 12:15:24 PM
Whoops. Youíre right theyíre about double that I think, I was thinking if the pump for the D850 block that was around 70 from Kb.  IIRC Wb is about 3x the Kb cost.
Title: Re: Broke down - Freshwater Coolant Pump Model and Source
Post by: rmbrown on December 26, 2018, 02:46:42 PM
My kubota part was more like $135.
Title: Re: Broke down - Freshwater Coolant Pump Model and Source
Post by: KWKloeber on December 26, 2018, 04:03:08 PM
Mike

What p/n?  The pump for the 35 may be more than the one for the D850/950 (m25/xp).
Title: Re: Broke down - Freshwater Coolant Pump Model and Source
Post by: rmbrown on December 26, 2018, 06:08:13 PM
I'm crushed to say I threw the packaging away, and I ordered it through a NAPA store (where, ironically the Kubota dealer sent me because "we don't deal with marine engines), but they wanted nearly $100 more for it anyway.  NAPA ordered me the genuine Kubota part as cheap as I could find it online.  I'm all but certain it was 15534-73030, though.  Mine didn't come with the small screw-in nipple on top though and I had to order it separately.
Title: Re: Broke down - Freshwater Coolant Pump Model and Source
Post by: KWKloeber on December 26, 2018, 07:14:49 PM
Thx Mike

Doesnít make sense that if the Kb dealer has the p/n it couldnít order the part, regardless of what itís going onto.  I have found tractor/agricultural Kb dealers oftentimes canít order parts for the industrial side, which is a different division.  The cheapest Iíve seen that pump is 118 + ship.

Ya, I remind folks to keep the hose nipple cus many times itís not on the replacement. Difficult to see, but when I converted my M25 to the separate WH loop, I used a 90 ell, 45 el,  nipple, reducing (increasing) elbow, and a hose barb to change direction that worked better for the hose run.
Title: Re: Broke down - Freshwater Coolant Pump Model and Source
Post by: Breakin Away on December 27, 2018, 07:58:54 AM
Hi all, I'm making phone calls and getting lots of information. I'll post more details on my findings later, but before I can move much further I need to find the Kubota serial number on my V1305 motor. Can you give me some quick hints of where I might find it? (Haven't found this info in the Wiki.)

EDIT: I've called a local NAPA guy and he does not have a water pump corresponding to the Kubota numbers that I have (probably because Kubota changes their numbers so often.) He also said that they don't sell genuine Kubota, only NAPA-manufactured replacements. If Mike Brown could post his NAPA dealer location I'd like to give him a try. As for prices, genuine Westerbeke is over $300, and genuine Kubota is coming in around $170. I'm trying to find a brick-and-mortar that has it in stock so I can measure the impeller diameter, but so far nobody has it in stock.

As for impeller diameter, the Wb part manual makes it pretty clear that B-series motors made before 2005 have a 57 mm impeller, while after 2005 it's 70 mm. All the Kumar stuff (and similar from China) seems to reference 70 mm impeller, which could be a problem. I'll post more details on this later, as it does help to clarify the situation.
Title: Re: Broke down - Freshwater Coolant Pump Model and Source
Post by: rmbrown on December 27, 2018, 01:06:40 PM
My NAPA store is:
http://www.pistonringandmachine.com/ (http://www.pistonringandmachine.com/)
Title: Re: Broke down - Freshwater Coolant Pump Model and Source
Post by: KWKloeber on December 27, 2018, 02:51:14 PM

As for impeller diameter, the Wb part manual makes it pretty clear that B-series motors made before 2005 have a 57 mm impeller, while after 2005 it's 70 mm. All the Kumar stuff (and similar from China) seems to reference 70 mm impeller, which could be a problem. I'll post more details on this later, as it does help to clarify the situation.


Ok so that makes it a little easier to find the correct Kb part no. In the Kb parts manual that I posted on the wiki, the p/n listed for the earlier (or later) serial number engines determines the pump and p/n that you need pre- (or post) 2005.

I have found excellent parts info/support at Messicks- brick/mortar.

Remember the gasket too!

Title: Re: Broke down - Freshwater Coolant Pump Model and Source
Post by: Breakin Away on December 28, 2018, 08:05:20 AM
More phone calls, more information on possible sources and part numbers. I'll post a summary. However, my pump is now leaking quite a bit faster, and I need to pull it ASAP so I can verify impeller size and order the replacement.

Can I get a quick recommendation on how to draw down the coolant below the pump level? Do I pull the cap and pump it out the manifold? Pull the large hose from the pump and quickly position a cup to catch the coolant that comes out? Open the petcock on the HX and drain it there? I'm sure that someone who has done this has some suggestions of how best to do this.

For now, I'm only interested in draining enough to get the level below the pump. (I'll do a full flush later.) Any idea about how much coolant I need to remove to get it to that level?
Title: Re: Broke down - Freshwater Coolant Pump Model and Source
Post by: Stu Jackson on December 28, 2018, 08:10:28 AM
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Can I get a quick recommendation on how to draw down the coolant below the pump level? >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Here's how on an M25:

Engine Overheating 101 - How to Burp Your Engine (Reply #6)  http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,4518.msg26462.html#msg26462
Title: Re: Broke down - Freshwater Coolant Pump Model and Source
Post by: KWKloeber on December 28, 2018, 09:02:52 AM
Ck the coolant capacity on the 4 cyl ( service manual), Iíd guess that draining half is plenty.  Is the petcock on the Hx,  on the seawater or coolant (probably) side?  Dunno.

I can easily drain coolant pulling the hose off the Hx, but my access may be way easier than yours.  I have also drained using the engine petcock (which Ron doesnít like) but Iíve never had so much as a drip from it.

I have a little multipurpose 12v pump - thx for the idea of pumping out @@ the manifold - that should work well for me also.

I have a nice place to disconnect/drain the lower hose, but I donít think the B series is as convenient.  Pic to follow.
Title: Re: Broke down - Freshwater Coolant Pump Model and Source
Post by: Breakin Away on December 30, 2018, 08:26:44 PM
More phone calls, more information on possible sources and part numbers. I'll post a summary...
I wrote up my research on freshwater pumps for B-series motors. I put it in a different thread which seems more suited to the specific issues of Universal's B-series motors. I'll also put a link in the wiki:

http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,9461.msg77379.html#msg77379

EDIT: Hmmm, I could have sworn that I read somewhere that we could all edit the Tech Wiki, but darn if I can figure out how.

Someone please add the above link to the Diesel Engine wiki next to "FRESHWATER COOLANT PUMP Parts # and Sources".

Also, while you are at it, I would appreciate correcting the line at the top of the page  that says "M-30, a 4-cylinder producing 28hp, became an optional engine about the same time and is standard in the Mark II." There are a number of MkII boats that have M35B standard, and it's not even mentioned on the page, which means it does not come up in a search. FYI, the tech manual says that the M35B produces 35 HP and M25XPB generates 28 HP.

In general, this text on the Diesel Engine page seems to neglect B-series motors and thus looks like it's in sore need of updating. I'm happy to help, but you guys need to provide clarity on how members can edit these pages. Right now "Help with logging in" tells me "To create an account, select "Log in" (top right of page) then "Create account", but there is no such link on the login page. So maybe some revisions to the instructions are in order. Thanks!
Title: Re: Broke down - Freshwater Coolant Pump Model and Source
Post by: KWKloeber on December 30, 2018, 11:38:11 PM
WOW!  Super comprehensive and SUPER helpful.

On the wiki, are you using the WordPress interface or the original wiki page (at the bottom of the WordPress page you click the link to edit the source wiki page)

Once on the mediawiki platform, you register as a user, ďeditĒ at the top of page link, try to figure out the correct way to compose a link using wiki markup text, and instantly forget how afterward cuz itís a strange language.

I typically find one that works and displays how I prefer, and copy/paste/edit the link. Youíre just throwing down a link instead of creating a new page, so not a big deal. Youíll probably use the ďexternal linkĒ format. See the Help button at the top of editing - it opens a help guide on links, formatting headings, etc.

If you do post any media (pic, pdf, etc) i always do it as an external rather than internal link. If you do that, or need any other help, email me and Iíll walk you thru it.

-k


Title: Re: Broke down - Freshwater Coolant Pump Model and Source
Post by: Breakin Away on December 31, 2018, 08:58:22 AM
I'll go in and try to edit the wiki again when I have a few more minutes.

For now, one quick question in preparation for when my new freshwater pump arrives: Is a gasket sealant recommended for the freshwater pump, and if so, what brand/type? I thought I had found a page on this site that mentioned it, but it got lost in the 100+ pages I read getting info on pump specs. Thanks!
Title: Re: Broke down - Freshwater Coolant Pump Model and Source
Post by: KWKloeber on December 31, 2018, 01:01:45 PM
IIWMP Iíd follow whatever the B series Service Manual says. They are written by Kb and personalized for the marine engine by Wb.
Title: Re: Broke down - Freshwater Coolant Pump Model and Source
Post by: Breakin Away on January 04, 2019, 08:01:27 PM
FWIW, both Westerbeke and Kubota manuals say to use a thin coat of sealant over the gasket. They recommend Three Bond 1215 or similar. The 1215 was coming up over $50, so I opted for the "or similar". I chose Permatex 22071 Water Pump and Thermostat Gasket Maker, which has the needed thermal spec and is optimized for glycol resistance. This is capable of replacing the gasket entirely, but I used it as a dressing with the thinnest possible coat on both sides of the gasket.

Interestingly, I stumbled across some instructions on Aisin's website (maker of the old Universal water pump that I pulled out) that said not to use gasket sealer. Go figure.

I installed the new Kubota pump (OEMed by TBK) today (before seeing Aisin's warning). I'm waiting a day or so for the gasket dressing to cure fully before filling the air pocket with coolant.
Title: Re: Broke down - Freshwater Coolant Pump Model and Source
Post by: Breakin Away on January 04, 2019, 08:28:26 PM
Once on the mediawiki platform, you register as a user
I did this, and I now have a mediawiki account that I'm logged in to.

ďeditĒ at the top of page link
I don't have an "edit" link. I do have a "View Source" link at the top of the page. When I click it, it says:

Quote
You do not have permission to edit this page, for the following reason:

The action you have requested is limited to users in the group: Users.
Also, at the top of the page, it has a link that says "Log in", which is odd, because I'm already logged in on the mediawiki site. When I click the "Log in" link, I am taken to another page that asks me to enter login credentials, but neither my mediawiki credentials nor my C34 website credentials work.

Are you sure that we're all allowed to edit the wiki? Why am I the only one who seems to have this problem?

Could someone who has edit privileges for the wiki please create a page explaining, in detail, how a new user can set up an account and log in? Our wiki doesn't seem to allow edits unless you're on some special "User" list. And this instruction definitely does not seem to work, since it will not accept my login credentials:

Quote
Anyone may read the topics. If you wish to add content to the wiki you must log in. Use the same user name and password that you use to access the forum.
Title: Re: Broke down - Freshwater Coolant Pump Model and Source
Post by: Stu Jackson on January 04, 2019, 09:57:35 PM
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Could someone who has edit privileges for the wiki please create a page explaining, in detail, how a new user can set up an account and log in? Our wiki doesn't seem to allow edits unless you're on some special "User" list. And this instruction definitely does not seem to work, since it will not accept my login credentials:

Quote
Anyone may read the topics. If you wish to add content to the wiki you must log in. Use the same user name and password that you use to access the forum.

You have answered your own question.

Forget mediawiki, KISS.

1.  Go to the wiki, usually from the link at the top of this page, or from the home page.

2.  Find any wiki page.  Top right of the page, Edit.  Go to the bottom of the Wordpress page you're on, will say To Edit original, click on that link.

3.  To REPEAT [sorry about the yelling:D]:  Use the same user name and password that you use to access the forum.

4.  Edit or create, SAVE button at the bottom of the page.

The only "trick" is to go from the Wordpress page to the original wiki page, which it suggests that you do when you scroll to the bottom of any WP page.

There are no wiki editor "privileges," whoever is on the forum can edit or create wiki pages.

I sincerely apologize for any confusion.  A few years ago we moved the original wiki pages to Wordpress for a number of reasons, few of which saw their intended fruition because the individual who did so much work in a helpful manner sold her C34. 

In any event, it is only one click more than it had ever been.

Thanks for bringing up the issues you had.  Hope this solves them, if not, just keep asking.



Title: Re: Broke down - Freshwater Coolant Pump Model and Source
Post by: KWKloeber on January 04, 2019, 10:09:04 PM
Stu

Did that process change at some point?

I swear that when I created my C34 wiki account that it was a separate registration/credentials (a "create account" link) after registering for the forum? (even tho I did use the same sign-on and password)  Or am I jist CRS?

-k
Title: Re: Broke down - Freshwater Coolant Pump Model and Source
Post by: Breakin Away on January 04, 2019, 10:24:04 PM
I tried Stu's method again, which was the same thing I had already done before trying Ken's method. Since this is the third time I've tried the same thing, I also decided to yell at my computer.

It didn't work.

Since you clearly don't believe me, I've attached screenshots. I think you have a problem, and hope you come to realize it.
Title: Re: Broke down - Freshwater Coolant Pump Model and Source
Post by: Breakin Away on January 04, 2019, 10:47:04 PM
Oh, one other thing.

Ken's userid on the forum is KWKloeber.

Ken's userid on the wiki is Kloebereng. Not the same credentials.

You might want to check out some of these facts before yelling at people.
Title: Re: Broke down - Freshwater Coolant Pump Model and Source
Post by: KWKloeber on January 05, 2019, 01:19:06 AM
Breaker one-nine

Point of info, KWKloeber is my "display name" (both forum and wiki) not my usernames. 

I started this explanation earlier but crossed wires with Stu's, so deferred to him.

Kinda comical, but I BELIEVE that you created an account on the MediaWiki platform site, not for the C34 techwiki.  Click on Help (left panel,) go back to MediaWiki, sign on, and you **should* BE ALL SET to edit pages there (which doesn't get you any closer to your goal.) 

When I registered for the C34 wiki (too long ago), I SWEAR it was a separate sign up and separate credentials.   

I emailed David to verify that, and if so, to reinstate the "Create Account" link.

Caveat - I may be all wet on the above.  I CRS anymore!!!

Here's what it will eventually look like for you once signed in ...

Title: Re: Broke down - Freshwater Coolant Pump Model and Source
Post by: KWKloeber on January 05, 2019, 02:04:34 AM
ok, maybe the "create account"  script is screwed up, or create account got locked for only administrators. 

It seems like with every mediawiki update comes some snafu(s).  Usually, it's the photo auto-resizing add-on extension.

David will figure it out.
Title: Re: Broke down - Freshwater Coolant Pump Model and Source
Post by: Stu Jackson on January 05, 2019, 09:11:53 AM


Did that process change at some point?

No.
Title: Re: Broke down - Freshwater Coolant Pump Model and Source
Post by: Breakin Away on January 05, 2019, 09:57:01 PM


Did that process change at some point?

No.
Please let me know when you've figured this out. I clearly cannot log on with my credentials, even though I've followed them exactly. The screenshots pretty much tell it all. Since there's never been a change to the process, then something must have broken in the back end. Meanwhile, I'm sitting on some nice contributions that should go into the wiki.

Thanks!
Title: Re: Broke down - Freshwater Coolant Pump Model and Source
Post by: KWKloeber on January 05, 2019, 11:20:21 PM
STU

Re: our email xchange.  The wiki is not using the same credentials as my forum account (or appear not to be) 
When I change my Forum sign-on password, it doesn't affect my Wiki sign-on.  And vice-versa. They are independent.
So, I don't understand how using the forum registration would work on the wiki sign on.  Doesn't compute with what I found when I "tested" some changes.  There is a log on/CREATE ACCOUNT special page on the wiki, but there is no page there to create, only to sign on
ie,
http://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Special:UserLogin

Shouldn't there be a title=Special:SignUp page?  actually there is
http://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Special:UserLogin/signup

BUT it is locked to only admins, thus:

Permission error

You do not have permission to create this user account, for the following reason:
The action you have requested is limited to users in the group: Administrators.

-ken
Title: Re: Broke down - Freshwater Coolant Pump Model and Source
Post by: Stu Jackson on January 06, 2019, 08:50:56 AM
Gentlemen,

Please stop with credentials and all that unnecessary complication.

1.  Go to any Tech wiki page

2.  Go to bottom of page, click on the link where it says: Edit this page at the source:

3.  Top of page click on Log In or Edit if your computer saved your un & pw.  Un & pw are the same as those you use for this forum.

Please let us know if you have any issues with this procedure.

Breakin Away:  I understand your frustration.  I have contacted our webmaster and asked him to look into your posts here about this issue you're having.
Title: Re: Broke down - Freshwater Coolant Pump Model and Source
Post by: Stu Jackson on January 06, 2019, 09:08:47 AM
Just as a followup, I logged out of the wiki and just successfully logged back in following those instructions.  It does work.
Title: Re: Broke down - Freshwater Coolant Pump Model and Source
Post by: KWKloeber on January 06, 2019, 10:01:48 AM
Question. Has any member done a FIRST TIME wiki sign up recently (2018) and what process did you use?
Breaking is spot on, sumptin AINT workin.

BA, just verifying - Is BA your forum sign in, or is BA a display name?

Stu, I replied by email.

-ken

(why do SoftWare/browser script writers ALWAYS try to confuse? Why SIGN out but LOG in?  Can't they think linearly???   simple - log out/log in. Sign out/sign in?). :shock:
Title: Re: Broke down - Freshwater Coolant Pump Model and Source
Post by: Breakin Away on January 06, 2019, 10:29:20 AM
My profile says Breakin Away is both display and sign in.

Your experiment with changing your password is a huge red flag that the credentials are no longer connected to each other. Credentials seem to be the same for legacy users merely because they haven’t changed them.

All you guys need to do to replicate this is log out and create a new (temporary) userid for yourselves. Then I suspect you’ll have the same problem. If not, the problem may be unique to me.
Title: Re: Broke down - Freshwater Coolant Pump Model and Source
Post by: KWKloeber on January 06, 2019, 11:36:22 AM
BA. Ya thatís what I tried to do but canít w/o being approved for a registration 
Anyway, Stu has David on it.  They get to the bottom   
Title: Re: Broke down - Freshwater Coolant Pump Model and Source
Post by: Jon W on January 06, 2019, 12:31:53 PM
Breakin Away I just added your link from page 4 of this thread to the WIKI as you requested. At least I attempted to.

The WIKI will have to process its daily refresh before it shows up.
Title: Re: Broke down - Freshwater Coolant Pump Model and Source
Post by: Stu Jackson on January 06, 2019, 05:17:56 PM
WIKI UPDATE

Dave Sanner, our superb webmaster, reports that his extensive digging indicates a linking code issue.

He's working on it.

Thanks, Dave
Title: Re: Broke down - Freshwater Coolant Pump Model and Source
Post by: Stu Jackson on January 07, 2019, 10:13:14 AM
From: David Sanner
> Sent: Sun Jan 6, 2019 8:19 PM
> To: Ken Kloeber; Stu Jackson
> Subject: Re: Wiki HELP
>
>
> I believe I have it fixed now...
>
> Once logged into to the BBS the wiki should pull in your account info.
>
> -d


Breakin Away, try it now.
Title: Re: Broke down - Freshwater Coolant Pump Model and Source
Post by: Breakin Away on January 07, 2019, 09:15:52 PM
Breakin Away, try it now.
Thanks, Stu, I look forward to trying it. But I'm going to hold off on entering any credentials until the website security issue has been explained: http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,10100.0.html
Title: Re: Broke down - Freshwater Coolant Pump Model and Source
Post by: Stu Jackson on January 10, 2019, 11:30:38 AM
Breakin Away, try it now.
Thanks, Stu, I look forward to trying it. But I'm going to hold off on entering any credentials until the website security issue has been explained: http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,10100.0.html

From Dave this morning:


Still need to find some time (few more hours) to take another crack at
the mediawiki plugin to support SMF/BBS user login... apparently it's
not easy to get them working and I don't want to break either the wiki
or bbs with a bad config.  (feel free to remind me about this in a few
days / week or so)
Title: Re: Broke down - Freshwater Coolant Pump Model and Source
Post by: Breakin Away on January 10, 2019, 10:55:26 PM
Breakin Away, try it now.
I tried again. Same result - it says no user by that name. I still think that someone should try creating a new userID to see if you can replicate the issue.

The website is also still not secure.
Title: Re: Broke down - Freshwater Coolant Pump Model and Source
Post by: Breakin Away on January 28, 2019, 07:36:10 PM
I'm starting to figure out how I'm going to flush, clean, and replace my freshwater cooling system this spring.
...I can easily drain coolant pulling the hose off the Hx, but my access may be way easier than yours.  I have also drained using the engine petcock (which Ron doesnít like) but Iíve never had so much as a drip from it....I have a nice place to disconnect/drain the lower hose, but I donít think the B series is as convenient.  Pic to follow.
Yes on both counts: My access to the HX coolant hose is very poor, and the lower hose from the water pump is segmented into a very short rubber bend, then a metal section. There's no benefit to pulling it off like Stu suggests, because it's not long enough to route it to a pail. In addition, note that the hot water heater for the MkII boats is located in front of the refrigerator, making for a significant low point where the fittings are virtually inaccessible, so draining that loop is going to be tough.

These key differences make draining and refilling the M35B on the MkII boats very different from what's been documented here for the M25 on the MkI boats. M35B does not even have a drain petcock, it has a plug behind the oil filter that is very hard to access. Before I start posting ideas for your comments, do any of you owners of the newer boats (MkII with M35B) have any suggestions on how best to drain the old coolant from the M35B motors, and then refill?
Title: Re: Broke down - Freshwater Coolant Pump Model and Source
Post by: Breakin Away on February 01, 2019, 07:05:01 PM
As I said before, I am trying to figure out the best place to open up my cooling system to drain/flush/refill it. I'm having a little trouble figuring out the flow pattern through the pump. I'd like to know where is in and where is out. It's not totally straightforward because there are three ports on the pump.

First, you've got the little "return tube" on the top of the pump (as it's mounted on the motor). Since this is called a "return" (and looks to enter at a suction point behind the impeller) I assume that this is an inlet.

Second, you've got the large-diameter barb on the bottom, and leads back to the HX. Since this is off-axis, I assume that centrifugal force causes water to flow out from this barb.

Third, you have the opening in the gear cover onto which the pump attaches. From the angle of approach, it appears that the impeller is pulling the coolant through here.

So am I right that there are two inlets and one outlet?

I would guess that the two inlets result because the outlet water is split between what goes through the thermostat (when it's open) and what bypasses the thermostat (when it's closed). I assume that the little "return pipe" inlet is the part that bypasses the manifold instead of going through the thermostat to the manifold. Of course, this water does not go direct to the return feed, it first goes through the hot water heater loop, then back to the return pipe.

Is all of this description correct? My boat is covered in ice and snow right now, and it's not safe to go down and trace all the lines. But this is what it seems like from memory and from looking at photos of the motor and the schematics in the parts manual.

This is important to me because I'd like to know the suction points where I might be able to connect some tubing with elevated feed vessel to suck the new rinse/coolant into the cooling system. I'm also interested in places I might apply air or water flow to flush out the motor without it running. As I mentioned before, some of these points of access are different on my M35B vs. the M25, so not all the prior descriptions work for me.
Title: Re: Broke down - Freshwater Coolant Pump Model and Source
Post by: Stu Jackson on February 01, 2019, 10:41:33 PM
BA,

Do these photos help? 

Start on reply #12, page 1

http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,4588.0.html
Title: Re: Broke down - Freshwater Coolant Pump Model and Source
Post by: Breakin Away on February 02, 2019, 05:39:11 AM
Same ones I was already looking at. Thanks anyway. Am I right about pump in and pump out and the other stuff?
Title: Re: Broke down - Freshwater Coolant Pump Model and Source
Post by: Jim Hardesty on February 02, 2019, 07:49:52 AM
Quote
As I said before, I am trying to figure out the best place to open up my cooling system to drain/flush/refill it. I'm having a little trouble figuring out the flow pattern through the pump.

Did mine couple of years ago when changing hot water heater.  Easy to do.  Coolant change not water heater.  Main problem was catching the draining coolant, just need to find the right pan.  I also taped over the limber holes under the engine to keep the little spilled coolant contained.  I didn't do it, but, don't think it would be too bad to let it drain to the bilge, with the bilge pump off, and collect it there.  And flush it well.
The Owners Manual gives decent explanation and instructions.  If you don't have the manual it's here.  FWIW my drain plug took a 9/16 wrench.
Jim
Title: Re: Broke down - Freshwater Coolant Pump Model and Source
Post by: KWKloeber on February 02, 2019, 08:08:53 AM
Same ones I was already looking at. Thanks anyway. Am I right about pump in and pump out and the other stuff?

BA

a quick ans right now. More l8r if u have Q?s.

The pump pushes coolant INTO the block, so 2 ports are Inzies (one from Hx outzie and one from WH outzie.)

The other hose is thermostat outzie (on the block, not on the pump)  ó> exh manifold Inzie.
The other hose on the Exh man is;  EM outzieó> Hx inzie.

So thereís two parallel coolant loops.

Block -> tstat -> ExhMan -> Hx -> pump -> block
Block -> WH -> pump -> block.

Look at this. Flow is identical on the B engines (about the only thing that is  :D )
Coolant flow UPDATED 5/10/18 Here

http://www.c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Manuals
http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,9871.msg75379.html#msg75379

Note u can actually print or save the corrected diagram to ur phone n take it to the boat; not just try to remember what was wrong on the orig drawing <wink>.

If you need, I can mark the flow paths on those photos of the B engines?

-k

Title: Re: Broke down - Freshwater Coolant Pump Model and Source
Post by: KWKloeber on February 02, 2019, 08:49:10 AM
BA.

Thereís a major statement missing from the Ops Manual description of the closed system.

Thermostat

.....When the engine is first started the closed thermostat prevents coolant from flowing (some coolant is by-passed through a hole in the thermostat to prevent the exhaust manifold from overheating).

To prevent hot spots in the block, coolant also bypasses FROM the thermostat housing TO the coolant pump via a short bypass hose (between two small hose barbs at the base of the thermostat housing and the coolant pump.)  Catalina removes this short bypass hose and attaches the water heater hoses to those two ports.  This creates a continuous coolant flow through the water heater whether the thermostat is open or closed. 

As the engine warms up the thermostat gradually opens.
Title: Re: Broke down - Freshwater Coolant Pump Model and Source
Post by: KWKloeber on February 02, 2019, 04:29:54 PM
BA:

see the 1st entry under engine cooling

http://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Diesel_Engine

Title: Re: Broke down - Freshwater Coolant Pump Model and Source
Post by: Breakin Away on February 02, 2019, 09:17:56 PM
Thanks for straightening me out on all this. It's a lot to unpack, but I'm working my way through it. I'll have more questions in a few days.
Note u can actually print or save the corrected diagram to ur phone n take it to the boat; not just try to remember what was wrong on the orig drawing <wink>.
Actually there is no original drawing of the flow directions in the B-series ops manual - or, at least, I've been totally unable to find it.

This flow direction is actually somewhat surprising, because the impeller's rotation and angle of the passages sure made it look to me like the two larger ports would go the opposite direction. This was because in my head I had the motor and belt rotating counter-clockwise, in the wrong direction. The "clockwise when viewed from the front" direction (as stated in the B-series ops manual) makes all the flows go in the direction that you say.

Here's the dilemma, and the reason why I made this mistake: With a right-handed prop, the shaft needs to turn counter-clockwise (when viewed from the front) for the boat to go forward. Please tell me that the Hurth transmission reverses the shaft direction when in forward gear. Otherwise my head is going to explode. (My B-series manual actually doesn't explicitly say this, only saying "Transmissions turn Right Hand propellers" without reference to the engine's rotation.)

If you need, I can mark the flow paths on those photos of the B engines?
I see you added that to the Wiki. Thanks! But to pick nits, the B-series photos are a M35B, not M25XPB (which is nice for us MkII owners). The white sign on top, where you wrote in "From Tstat out" identifies it as M35B on the other side. (Check the other photo angles to verify.)
Title: Re: Broke down - Freshwater Coolant Pump Model and Source
Post by: Breakin Away on February 02, 2019, 09:42:50 PM


I also taped over the limber holes under the engine to keep the little spilled coolant contained...
I actually kind of like that idea. Seal the pan and just let it it all drain in there, and come up with a way to pump it out of there before it overflows. Maybe a drill pump? I have a really nice electric oil extraction pump, but the antifreeze will be more difficult to dispose of it it's contaminated with oil.
The Owners Manual gives decent explanation and instructions.
I had seen those instructions but was struggling with how to get a container under the drain hole. Just letting it drain in the pan looks more straightforward.

Any ideas on how to purge the HW heater loop? Blow it out with a compressor?
Title: Re: Broke down - Freshwater Coolant Pump Model and Source
Post by: KWKloeber on February 02, 2019, 11:06:44 PM
BA

Wb manuals sometimes leave things to be desired.  Tho they are a lot better than the old Universal Motors manuals (that e.g., reference a (tractor) 'radiator to cool the engine.')
I meant that the pix could be downloaded and taken to the boat.  Actually, the corrected M25/XP (ops manual) coolant diagram is accurate for the B series as well (as a schematic, that is.)

Engine coolant pumps (even autos) push coolant INTO the engine block.  Because hot coolant rises, the flow is OUT past the thermostat (top of the engine) and returns back to the coolant pump.

Prop rotation: check out the 1st and last 2 paragraphs on page 5 the Huth manual on the (bottom of) MANUALS wiki page.

Thanks for the heads up on the model, so noted and corrected. 
D'oh I hadn't looked down far enough in the pix to see the "35B" (or four injectors!!) and had my head around "A4 replacement" (for the C-30.)

Title: Re: Broke down - Freshwater Coolant Pump Model and Source
Post by: KWKloeber on February 03, 2019, 07:16:48 AM
<<Blow it out with a compressor?>>

Or a portable/refillable air tank, sm shop vac blowing or sucking that you adapt down to a smaller hose.
Title: Re: Broke down - Freshwater Coolant Pump Model and Source
Post by: Stu Jackson on February 03, 2019, 12:31:59 PM
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Any ideas on how to purge the HW heater loop? Blow it out with a compressor?

It seems to me that "absolute" removal of all of the old coolant may not be necessary.  I would simply remove the two ends of the 3/8"/5/8" hoses to the water heater at the engine and blow through the highest one with a container under the other one.  You could even cobble together an extension hose on the lower hose and run it to a bucket/container.  Good luck, what ever you choose to do.  Once you've performed this successfully, it would really be appreciated it if you'd document it and we can add it to the "Burping Your Engine" post in Critical Upgrades and post it as a wiki.  Heck, make a tech note out of it, too.  :D  Thanks.
Title: Re: Broke down - Freshwater Coolant Pump Model and Source
Post by: Jon W on February 03, 2019, 01:28:28 PM
Adding to Stuís comment - 100% coolant removal not critical as long as youíre not switching from Dexcool (orange stuff) to ethylene glycol (green stuff) or vice versa. Supposedly there is a risk that if the orange and green stuff mix, clumps will form that will block cooling passages.