Installing a K&N air filter on my 25xp engine, does anyone know what to do with the oil breather hose? I have exhausted my search through the archives and can't find what others have done, do I just strap it to the filter like the old set up had? Get a seperate can to put it in? sure I will figure something out, but curious to see what others have done when they switched to the K&N filter. thanks
Bob : Look in WiKi and you'll find the option of drilling/taping into the intake manifold - to attach the oil breather hose to.
Quote from: Bobg on April 09, 2016, 09:45:43 AM
Installing a K&N air filter on my 25xp engine, does anyone know what to do with the oil breather hose? I have exhausted my search through the archives and can't find what others have done, do I just strap it to the filter like the old set up had? Get a seperate can to put it in? sure I will figure something out, but curious to see what others have done when they switched to the K&N filter. thanks
Bob,
Your XP should have a knockout on the intake manifold next to the silencer throat. if so, you can get friction-fit hose nipple for the knockout from Kubota and the OEM hose (I think it's 3/4?) fits the nipple. I recently did this on a customer's XP on a C30. This is the method to terminate the breather hose on some of the Kb tractors that use the XP equivalent engine.
Alternately, drill and tap the manifold or throat for an npt x hose barb (use a rag to catch filings when drilling.)
Or KN makes an adapter that fits the filter (between top and bottom plates) and a hose attaches to (not sure what hose diameters it is available in.
Cheers,
Ken
See pic of breather hose attached at manifold.
kk
Ron- where in Wiki?
Teck wiki, Engines, Misc. Projects:
Options to Route Crankcase Breather Hose to Air Intake VIEW THE PDF
Remote Oil Filter Details from Maine Sail: http://www.sailnet.com/forums/engines/230865-remote-oil-filter-kubota-diesel.html#post3224841 (http://www.sailnet.com/forums/engines/230865-remote-oil-filter-kubota-diesel.html#post3224841)
You'll have to actually go to the wiki to cliock the link on the first one, but I don't think it has that info that Ron mentioned. There are many K&N discussions on the forum, one with pictures of Rick Allen's setup he did last year.
Here's the link to the TW PDF
http://c34.org/wiki/images/1/13/Example.pdf
Here's the KN adapter in use
(http://www.knfilters.com/images/marine/85-1375shdw.jpg)
kk
What is the advantage of thr KN over standard OEM can assembly?
I don't think there is any difference in what filter you use. Most boats are not used in dusty environments, it is more noise silencer than a filter. I just cut foam rubber to the proper size, whip stitch the ends together and use it until in gets dirty. Toss it and make a new one. I added a 90 degree hose barb to the top of the oem filter and run the breather to that.
Yeah, my plan too. Does anyone have a pic of where the breather hose comes off the engine?
it is attached to the valve cover
Bob, this my setup..
(http://media.fotki.com/1_p,rtqqskkwrdqfsfdxwkwtqfgkwfb,vi/bsfsskdbqxbskdqqwdgxtddttggkw/4/31944/13685382/PKAirFilter-vi.jpg)
a pic of my installation, it was straight forward with the vast amount of info on this site.
Yaaaaaayyyy :clap :clap
Quote from: Ekutney on November 21, 2016, 03:29:44 PM
a pic of my installation, it was straight forward with the vast amount of info on this site.
Please remember that we are on sailboats that heel when motor sailing. In order to avoid a run-away diesel or excess carbon, it's a good idea to put a "trap" in the PCV line before it hits the manifold or air filter. Even a cheap in-line filter for an air compressor will work to capture any oil before it gets to the manifold. These are often called "oil/air separators" or "oil catch cans".
Mainsail,
Thanks for the advice, I planned on installing one before I take the boat out again. I'll do a search and find a simple inline filter, just cut the hose and clamp one in place. I am using 3/8 in leftover fuel hose, I thought that would work fine vs the clear hose that was originally installed.
BTW, the battery charger I bought from your site has been working outstanding. I am planning on installing a separate starting battery in the spring and maybe even replacing my 2 group 27 batteries with either 2 or 4 6V golf cart batteries. I have some rewiring planned and have used a good bit of the material you provided as reference material. The major point I have gotten from the material is it all about proper termination of the connector; use the right type with the right tool. I am a field engineer and I know from my own experience that the most common failures with very high dollar electronic systems tend to be the connections between components. Thanks much for the material you have posted on this site as well as other forums.
Ed,
Oil removal you with a coalescing filter", not just a simple in-line air filter, say, to remove moisture or particulates going to a spray gun. They ain't cheap but HF has one combined with a dryer -- just use the oil half. I have them on an industrial compressed-air-driven water pump -- I find them mine maintenance prone because the filter media will clog with the removed oil, it hardens, and flow is then greatly inhibited -- so keep extra filters cartridges! Otherwise use a jug setup as some have done to trap and drop out the oil (no filter per se, involved.)
-kk
RC,
How many times have you seen this happen due to the intake sucking the blow by? Is it common or a "just in case" kinda thing?
Remember all, if you get a run away, don't waste your time trying to stop it by anything other than popping off the air filter and choking of the air supply with your hand and a rag or something that seals against the intake hub.
And especially DON'T use the compression release lever on the M-25 and XPs!!!
Quote from: mainesail on November 22, 2016, 06:43:27 AM
Please remember that we are on sailboats that heel when motor sailing. In order to avoid a run-away diesel or excess carbon, it's a good idea to put a "trap" in the PCV line before it hits the manifold or air filter. Even a cheap in-line filter for an air compressor will work to capture any oil before it gets to the manifold. These are often called "oil/air separators" or "oil catch cans".
Found the following: JEGS Performance Products 52205 Air Oil Separator
The second pic is an example of it installed.
Is this what you were thinking of installed between the manifold and air intake?
yeah that one has a 20 micron permanent filter, not sure how quickly that would clog -- maybe not much?
here's a diy oil blowby "catch can" of pvc. cool huh?
(http://i1120.photobucket.com/albums/l488/simonwehr/My%20camaro/Catchcan-2.jpg)
ken
Nice DIY solution. I assume the top fitting is the input from the manifold & the side is the output to the intake. Have a couple questions for clarification:
What diameter PVC?
It looks like the "filter" (scotch pad) is held in place by the inner PVC tube. Correct?
Glued together or held by screws from mount?
How do you service rhe "filet element.
Is there any way to know the catch can is full? (Other than opening peacock)
ed,
Not sure... I had seen that on a Camaro forum... looked like 1-1/2, but it would be determined by what dia floor drain grate he found to fit PVC. I doubt it was 4" pvc - would fit. Looks to me the drain grate shoulder just fits inside / and the rim sits on the edge of the pvc pipe, and holds the scotch pads.
i'm guessing the drain grates and caps are glued and the pipe held to the coupling with the screws so it comes apart to clean/replace the scotch pad. I guess experience tells how often to drain? You can get drains that open as fluid rises (as on the pump supply I mentioned.) As well as clear PVC (at a premium!!) but it may get gunky and not be clear very soon?
PS, I just found a 2" drain grate that fits inside a 3" pvc pipe. Maybe there's a smaller one?
https://www.amazon.com/Oatey-43561-Snap-Drain-2-Inch/dp/B000BOC062
kk,
Thanks for the DIY idea but I think I'm just gonna go with the JPEGS unit, it's $38 from Amazon & will take lots less time than building the DIY unit plus not cost a lot more than buying all the pieces. I also like the clear feature of the JPEGS unit to see how much oil I am collecting. Clear PVC/plexiglass pipe can be costly & I know I'd have lots left over which would push me find other uses hence more projects. :D