i have hull 99, c34, 1986 and my deadheads are shot. scratched, chipped, leaking. I've rebed one but I've decided I want all new (and much darker). catalina yachts, *IF* they can find the patterns, are $125 a piece. I don't know what the local place will charge but the disadvantage of using local is the ports have to be out for 3 weeks, at least, while they duplicate them which means my boat will be open. does anyone else know if anyone who had the patterns for the deadheads so i can buy (and install) them at once?
thanks
becki kain
detroit
also, if someone has done all 4, on their c34, how much dow corning 795 did you use? catalina said I'd need two tubes and they would be happy to sell them to me for 18.95 each.
becki
I don't know about any Greatfull Dead groupies, :-) but I have occasionally seen sets of Catalina fixed ports on eBay and elsewhere.
Is that what you're looking to replace?
ken
thought that is what they are called. or fixed ports. or aft plexiglass. yes, what i posted on the c30 list - is there someone cheaper than catalina for these?
becki
A "deadlight" is something different.
What are you looking to replace exactly -- the alum frame et al? -- or just the glass?
I have seen Catalina fixed port frames on ebay and elsewhere. It's just hit and miss. Or check with Minneys.
If you can locate a used set, you could have them reglazed (and frame powder coated if you want) and then make a wholesale switch out.
Option would be to remove/disassemble one, and pattern the glass as well as the ID of the frame. The shape of the frame channel is all the same, so the other sizes would have the same "overlap" of the glass size compared to the ID shape of the frame. So you can pattern the other sizes and add "x" to the ID of each frame all around -- to get the glass size.
Or if someone has just one frame/glass hanging around, the glass/frame overlap would be the same as yours.
Are you planning to reglaze the glass into the frame yourself? Or have it professionally done (much greater success.)
There's tricks and different methods to reglaze them (some better than the CD kit) and I've had people (including a very professional yard) use alternate methods with great success. I have personally done what was essentially the CD method, and had releaks -- and an alternate method 15 yrs ago and nary a releak -- so my M.O. will be similar when I eventually do them all.
795 is usually available only in a commercial building supply place -- it's not big box, K-Mart, or Wally stuff -- check your local builders supplies - or look on dow website for their motor city distributor. I carry an equivalent for 15.
ken
i saw them listed as deadlight on this forum
looking to replace them all, and they are only plexi, no frames. mine are cracked to snot.
minney's?
how much goo do you need though, either 4200 or silicone or 795 or boatlife? catalina says 2 tubes/caulk gun cartridges
btw, for unknown reasons, Newegg.com sells 795. go fig
ohhhh ok, I'm used to the C30 frames n he MK-1
Can't you pattern the plexi with them in place? You should be able to find the edge and have new ones pade?
Use the recommended - not 4200 or anything else goop. Do you have a quote for approx size from a shop? That price probably that bad
Are you talking CTY or CD???????? prices? Did you ck with CTY for price or pattern?
k
catalina yachts. they are not certain they have the patterns but they will look, once i sent pictures and measurements.
I'm guessing you are talking about the portlights circled in the attached. Mine are in bad shape as well, I wanted to replace them so I talked to Catalina 4th Qtr last year. Other projects took priority so I haven't got them yet.
I was told they do not have patterns and that I would need to send them a template of each portlight. They suggested tracing around each with a heavy paper and labeling which position (ie port forward) the portlight came from, and then fore, aft, inboard, and outboard on each template. I recall the costs for each portlight and the 795 were about what you mentioned. I think they suggested more than two tubes though. I'll look for the E-mail tonight. Somewhere I have installation instructions too.
hey, you're in san diego. can i take out your boat? :D i'm going in june for no reason than to get away
but yeah, i talked to Len today and he said he'd check about the patterns. i would just rather get them all at once and made in advance than take them out, leave the boat open for 3 weeks and *then* get them and try to put them in.
please forward the mail if you find it - anaisdog@yaho.com
you might want to check with Select Plastics. They have patterns for all the opening ports, not sure about the fixed ones.
thanks. just emailed Anne!
Unfortunately at the moment my boat is still a project boat. June - July is scheduled to re-bed leaking chainplates, aft cabin opening port lights, and cockpit scuppers.
The costs I got from Len and Lisa were $100 each for the forward portlights, $125 each for the aft portlights, $140 for the beckson opening port for the head, and an avg of 2-3 tubes of 795 for each portlight at $18.95 each.
Quoting the E-mails -
"As I stated in my first email, each boat can be a little different and since your boat was manufactured in California. We do have some patterns but these boats were changed so much that we can't guarantee that they are correct. The patterns would guarantee a correct fit.
For the pattern it is preferable to use a durable paper such as a brown wrapping paper rather than something flimsy like tracing paper. You can probably get something at an Office Depot, Michaels or even a dollar store.
You do not need to take the windows out first. Lay the paper up against the window and trace along the edge of the window with a sharpie or other marker. It is important to mark each pattern as port or starboard and inside or outside depending on where you traced from. Yes, you can trace from the inside. As long as we know that we can adjust for the size of the window.
Finally, if you are ordering all four windows, port and starboard, fore and aft and the windows are the same size on each side other than being mirror images of each other then we only need patterns from one side."
The instructions are for a C30, but should work for a C34.
Quote from: anaisdog on May 18, 2016, 12:02:24 PM
catalina yachts. they are not certain they have the patterns but they will look, once i sent pictures and measurements.
Becki
Why couldn't you template the window from the inside -- I typically use cardboard rather than paper. You could use poster board - easier than corrugated to cut thru with a razor knife or xacto or kitchen shears, but stiff enough that it doesn't collapse. And it would be easy to use the template to check the other side windows. Then measure how much larger one glass is beyond the indie opening -- have your plexi supplier simply add "X" all around to each template when they cut them. Alternately you can probably feel the edge of the plexi outside and template it from that side.
Alternately, if you remove them, you could do a template for your supplier, and then put them back on temporarily with 3M heavy-duty double sided tape (Wally has it). It's for exterior use on brick and stone and the stuff holds like crazy -- I've used it to attach car door trim.
Does it really take a window/door place 3 WEEKS to cut some plexi? I get that stuff cut overnight - no big deal.
ken
Beckie, you might give the following a call: Lakeland Plastics, located in Spring Lake, Mi. # 1-616-638-1472(cell) land line 616-846-0261. His name Wayne Ritchie. He is a very fine craftsman. He did two for me a few years back.
Paul
3 weeks is what they said.
I'll call lakeland. thanks
Hi,
You could use craft paper, ( thick brown one ) and lay it on the plexi from the outside. Put some tape around to hold in place.
Pass one finger pressing the paper against the plexi contour and you should see the pattern marking on the paper.
Remove and use a felt pen to go over the mark pattern.
At least on the 89, there is no frame covering the plexi. And the contour is apparent.
yes, there's no frame for my 86 either.
Select plastics doesn't have the fixed port patterns
Quote from: anaisdog on May 19, 2016, 05:58:51 AM
3 weeks is what they said.
That's crazzy, don't yah think?
Maybe from the time they take the order, measure, order material, get it in, get it scheduled, yes. They probably have 3 weeks backlog of work, but if you get on the schedule, windows need to be there only a day before they cut them.
If you give them the ROUGH (rectangular) size of each window. Not even templates -- just overall size, Nothing stops them from ordering it in and scheduling it, and you drop off the plexi. To cut out 4 they should be ready the next day. Talk logical to them and see if they can work with you...! Or go to the next supplier. For that matter you can order material yourself and have someone cut it. Cutting plexi isn't rocket science.
kk
not my business so i have no idea. i'm calling around to the other recommended suppliers now.
You might also try a local glass shop.
Just remember they require more than a "simple" cut. They have a beveled edge.
and that's why i want a marine place to do it!
Lakeland plastics does mostly boats. Very good. I did bring in the old window for the pattern.
Paul
i called and left a message for lakeland. thanks!
Becki: I just had Allied Plastics in Toledo cut Plexiglass for my center overhead hatch. $20 plus labor. Called them at 4:30 and they said bring it in the next monring & wait. An hour later I was headed home with a new lens. They remover the plexi & taped it on a new rough cut sheet. Using the old lens as a template they used a router to cut the new lens with holes, 100% correct. My drive time was 30 minutes longer than my wait time, but worth it. Hope you can call around & find a place like I found.
Could you pull the windows out & cover with heavy plastic and duck tape for a day or two?
Just some thoughts. Good luck
hell, i'd drive to toledo for that! i'll call them tomorrow! thanks!
Call & make sure they have what you want & can do it while you wait.
3203 South Ave, Toledo,
419-389-1688
If you give them rough sizes they can give you a price. It will be a lot more than my 16" square center hatch.
I think they use 795 seal. Ask if they have it and the price.
thanks! talked to him, sent him the pictures - he's going to see if it's something he can do!
I just replaced mine.
Removed all 4 , removed old sealant, prepped the open frame and covered with shrink wrap and tape.
I took the windows to a local plastics guy.He was able to replicate the the old ones. Well almost , bit of a long story.
However they are in in a dark tint looks good.
Make sure to put some black paint on the little strip between head and aft cabin bulkheads
did you use 795? how long did it take to put them in?
Not sure if this could help you? Did a window replacement on our old C&C: https://blog.koehlmann.ca/marine-maintenance/replacing-the-main-port-windows/ (https://blog.koehlmann.ca/marine-maintenance/replacing-the-main-port-windows/)
Cheers.
I need to do mine soon as well. Since the mould for the cabin top made X number of boats all the same, then shouldn't a patterned set of windows fit all those boats? I have a laser shop and plan to cut my windows from acrylic plastic. I wonder if I should make several sets? I have a 1990 hull 997. What say you? I know I could beat the daylights out the price anywhere else. It takes an hour to prepare cutting with one of these, no charge. Cost of plastic plus laser time at $1.25/min. If it takes 10 min to cut four ports its a lot.
Another benefit: The laser leaves a stress free fire polished edge.
Dan, what about the bevel?
k
Is the window material a special type to stand up to a wave/marine environment? (like safety glass in a car).
If you have the proper material and are open to making extra's for sale I'm interested. I thought the same about the pattern. I can make and send patterns from my 1987 hull 493 to check compared to yours, let me know if you want me to do that.
I need to do mine as well so am interested in this possibility. I've been stalling for a couple of years now. Put me on the list.
http://www.eplastics.com/
Are you in San Diego? I used these guys. I took the old one out, then took it to Eplastics. It was broken in two pieces. They made an exact replica, took them around 4 hours. It cost around 100.00
John, I would also check Ridout Plastics (right up the street from your's and my offices) on Ruffin Rd. in San Diego. That is who I was going to use when "the time came". I have used them for 30 years for both marine work and commerical bulidings.t
Still wondering are they acrylic, Plexiglas, ?....
Jon- the scoop as I understand it. Plexiglass with two "s" is a generic category/term. Plexiglas with one "s" is a trademark for a brand of acrylic. I also just learned Brad Young's recommended company, Eplastics, is a subsidiary of my oldtime favorite SD plastics vendor, Ridout Plastics.
Quote from: Jon W on May 30, 2016, 04:45:54 PM
Still wondering are they acrylic, Plexiglas, ?....
Jon,
http://www.c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=File:Window_replacement_1.jpg
plexi/acrylic. Some suggest replacing w/lexan, but I think that's not recommended -- dunno, maybe too brittle? (and EXPENSIVE.)
kk
I'm not certain but I believe the dead lights are the same material the tinted salon slide panels are made of, and those are acrylic (plexi). Polycarbonate (lexan) is less brittle but does not cut nicely with a laser unless you have 3x the power I have.
Quote from: KWKloeber on May 30, 2016, 07:10:12 AM
Dan, what about the bevel?
k
What is beveled? I don't see beveling on my lights. If these are taken to a belt sander after being routed then same would need to occur after laser cutting.
Go back to page 1 of this post to see factory diagram showing bevel. Also I do not beleive a belt sander is used. Probably a router as part of the original trim/cutting to size...
Dan,
I am also interested if you have plans to cut extra and provide them for sale. Keep this link posted if you plan to offer them.
Looking at the title of the diagram I posted (oops) the fixed portlights are acrylic.
Maybe Andrew Harvey could clarify his source put the proper bevel around the edge? And the method?
I can laser cut a bevel in plastic, but that makes it a 3d part which is a whole other ballgame.
It would be more practical after straight laser cutting to use a router with a bevel cutter that has a bearing for riding on the edge... one slip and the panel is no good though. Might need a practice piece or 2.