We all seem to have 160 degree thermostats in our engines, and I know if it aint broke don't fix it...but still....I wonder. The Universal manual says temp range is 160-190 F. It would seem to me, that if you have a clean 3" heat exchanger that has no problem holding your temp at 160 F, would a 180 degree thermostat make for a cleaner running engine [and more hot water to boot]. When I say cleaner running, it is my understanding that internal combustion engines run more efficiently as temp goes up [to a point]. Again, this is assuming that the heat exchanger is clean and can hold the temp to spec with no problems. I have heard there are problems with salt in cooling water, but I thought that was with raw water cooled engines.
I put a 180 in mine. I stay vigilent about keeping the Heat Exchanger flushed of any salt build up. Our water around here is typically in the 50's. I put an Oberdorfer raw water pump on last summer, replacing the Sherwood, and I have a 3" HX. The temperature gauge always stays at 180. If I ever have an issue, I might put the 165 back in.
Craig
Either will work, I've used both. Buy them from a tractor store, much less expensive.
http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,3133.0.html (http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,3133.0.html)
I think a lot depends on the water temp. I don't think I would want to run a 180 down here in the Chesapeake or further south where the water can get into the 80s during the summer.
Guys : Ken has a good point on the outside water temperature.
I believe that thermostate question is a good one for Joe Joyce at Westerbeke (as they always say that a diesel runs better when it's hot) ! Be interesting to find out why they don't install the 180degree (rather than the 160) thermostate in their new Universal engines?
Data point: We run a 165 deg thermostat in Gulf waters. In the summer, with water temps in the mid-80's, the overall system temp runs about 180 degrees. The system runs 165-170 in the winter with water temperatures dipping into the mid-50's.
Cheers,
Vac
I run the 180 thermostat here in upper 50 degree SF Bay and
my engine pretty much runs at 180... which seems like an
ideal engine them.
Sounds like Ken has got it right ... if you're running in warm water you might
consider the 16oish thermostat especially if you're not keep on keeping
close tabs on your heat exchanger, hoses, screen, & impeller.
I have tried both. You might want to consider the temperature in the engine room. Very confined space.
Paul
I'm still using a 180 thermostat ... nearly 5 years after my last post in this thread. (I'm choosing not to start yet another thread on this subject)
Running at 180 seems to work fine but I have noticed a hard whitish buildup (salt/calcium?) where the hoses enter/exit the heat exchanger
which needs to be chipped away every time I'm changing the zinc (or ever other time if I'm changing my zinc as often as I should).
Eventually the buildup can restrict the water flow... maybe starting around 150 hours of run time.
Has anyone else see this buildup in their heat exchangers? I'm wondering if I swapped back to my 160 thermostat I wouldn't have to pull the caps off
and clean this buildup off. (And if the engine would burn as clean - does 20 degree change in coolant temperature = 20 in combustion temp or only a few degrees?)
If anyone else is seeing buildup running at 160-165 I'm going to stay at 180.
Quote from: David Sanner on November 29, 2014, 09:26:28 PM
I'm still using a 180 thermostat ... nearly 5 years after my last post in this thread. (I'm choosing not to start yet another thread on this subject)
Running at 180 seems to work fine but I have noticed a hard whitish buildup (salt/calcium?) where the hoses enter/exit the heat exchanger
which needs to be chipped away every time I'm changing the zinc (or ever other time if I'm changing my zinc as often as I should).
Eventually the buildup can restrict the water flow... maybe starting around 150 hours of run time.
Has anyone else see this buildup in their heat exchangers? I'm wondering if I swapped back to my 160 thermostat I wouldn't have to pull the caps off
and clean this buildup off. (And if the engine would burn as clean - does 20 degree change in coolant temperature = 20 in combustion temp or only a few degrees?)
If anyone else is seeing buildup running at 160-165 I'm going to stay at 180.
David,
WB recommends the 160F due to salt precipitation. It would cost you about 25 boat bucks (Kb thermostat) to try the recommended temp - why not?
Does the material fizzle if you put a few drop of acid on it - if so it's scale.
-ken