Just got back from a 5 day cruise around Puget Sound. Everything went beautifully with the exception that during two rain storms we were discovered the hatch in the main salon leaked.
Further investigation showed that the seal between the gasket and the lens has failed for about 1/3 of the circumference of the hatch. I've picked up some caulk to try and reseal it from West Marine (http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/producte/10001/-1/10001/3968/377%20710/0/caulk/Primary%20Search/mode%20matchallpartial/0/0?N=377%20710&Ne=0&Ntt=caulk&Ntk=Primary%20Search&Ntx=mode%20matchallpartial&Nao=0&Ns=0&keyword=caulk&isLTokenURL=true&storeNum=5000&subdeptNum=4&classNum=10890) but I am usnsure if I'm going down the right path.
In my mind the best thing to do would be to pop the whole lens out and seal the whole thing instead of trying to just jam caulk into the failed section. I'm guessing the whole lens will pop out with a good shove.
A few questions:
1) I found this in the wiki: http://www.c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Replacing_an_Overhead_Hatch_Lens. Does anyone know of any other tech notes that I should be reading up on?
2) Is my caulk OK or do I need to be using what Craig used?
3) Is popping the whole lens the correct approach or should I just try and jam the caulk into the failed section of the seal?
4) What am I missing?
Braxton, being simple-minded I use the KISS method when I get leaks around hatches and just squeeze some clear silicone around the edges, then run the hose over the hatch and if it still leaks just dab a bit more silicone on until it stops leaking. Once with the silicone usually does the trick. Your situation may not be as easily fixed, of course.
Bill
Originally that was going to be my approach but there really isn't a gap to squeeze the silicone into. The only way I can get a gap is to push up on the hatch from below. This in turn only expands the area that I need to seal. After discovering this I started to think about the issue and thinking about things is what normally gets me in trouble.
Braxton : I'd follow the Bomar instructions just like Gary & Craig did. From the age of your boat I'd recommend replacing the gasket and the lens at the same time.
I'm facing this job this winter and plan on following instructions. I have a full length winter cover, so I'm taking off the movable portion of the hatch and take it home to do the job.
The adjusting arm design is poor as it attaches to one of the dog latches. I beats the price and work of putting in an entirely new hatch. A thought
Ron: I broke my salon hatch this summer. Lens cracked across the corner. I have a 1989 #944. How are you going to replace the lens in the frame? Help would be appreciated.
Paul
Paul : I'll bet it's the port side corner that broke.
Call Bomar [Pompantte] at (603)862-5791. As I recall you have a 161/2 x 161/2 inch lens and it's a low profile hatch. Get out your credit card and they'll be glad to help you! Might look at getting a new gasket and hinge pins.
What I did with mine in the meantime was to use "crazy glue" (the liquid NOT the gel) and sealed the crack. Then be careful when opening/closing that hatch. A thought
Ron, it was the port side, across the latch. Do I have to send in the hatch to replace the lens or will they send me the materials to put in a new lens, glue and new gasket?
It sounds as if you are going to do the job yourself.
Thanks, Paul
Paul : I didn't get the feeling that Bomar will do the work of replacing the hatch for you. That's why I got the gasket and lens to do it myself.
I, TOO, NEED TO REPLACE THE LENS AND THE GASKET. WHEN I TALK TO BOMAR WILL THEY NEED MORE INFO THAN BOAT MODEL AND AGE
a little over 2 years ago I bought an "overstock" hatch complete from either Bomar or Catalina direct, will have to look up, but paid a little over $100 for it. Fit perfect and was an exact replacemet. I do not know if this is still an option but , what a deal it was. Terry
Those of you that have access to a router, laminate bit, double sided tape, original lens, drill and Forstner bit can do the job yourself and increase the thickness of the lens to 3/8" thick by going to your local acrylic supplier to get some tinted acrylic to the rough dimensions. Cut out the acrylic witht he router using the old lens as the template. Order a new gasket, mask off the lens and frame with masking tape then inject some GE Ultraglaze (black) and you are set. All can be done for less than $50.
This is a project I would like to see a WIKI and photos about. Can you do the same with the forward hatch?
After reviewing all the comments I think I'm going to attack this in two phases. My first will be to just add caulk around the leaking parts of the seal to keep water from getting in for the next couple of months. Later this winter when it s not going to cut into the sailing time I'll pop the lens out, clean it and reset it with a new gasket. I'll certainly take pictures of it and I can write it up for the wiki. I don't have any need for a new lens so I won't be able to document cutting a new one.
There all ready is a wiki article, it could be upgraded with pictures though. Look in the Hatches/portlights section.
That's good news. I'm much better with my camera then I am with my prose.
I removed my salon hatch today. The pins were made of nylon and I just cut them with a knife and then removed the hatch and took out the old pins. I took my hatch to Lakeland Plastics(Wayne Ritchie 1-616-638-1472). My hatch should be repaired in 3 or 4 days.
Paul
I checked the portlights/hatches section of the WIKI and did not see anything about cutting your own hatch material. This would be a great money saver if there were some detailed information about how to work with the plexiglass and install the gaskets. For example, how do you effectively drill into the material after you have routed out the outer shape? Do you sand or polish the edges? I use a router with template bits all the time in my workshop. I just did not know you could cut this stuff using a router.