I have ordered the G-2UB system with the optional swivel cams. For those owners of a MKII who have this system I would appreciate any helpful hints on the installation process,
Thanks
Here is my set up. I ran the line back around to form a 'closed loop' attached to the sliding car. This way, I can pull on that end and move the car back. I ran the line through a block attached to the stern rail, this keeps the pull in line with the track and away from the dodger. I also have the swivel cam. Pulling on that part of the line will move the car forward. I mounted it as far back as possible, and I mounted it backwards (the welded eyeloop aft) because I'm not using a bungee line. For the money, the system works great. Probably the competitive units might slide better due to ball bearings, but they are more than twice the cost. I use the system quite often and it is one of the top improvements I've made.
Roc,
I have been looking at various adjustable jib car systems. Your statement about cost is very true. Other systems with ball bearings are 3-4x the cost of the easy glide.
Now to my question: Are the cars moveable under load, or do you have to ease out the jib or turn into the wind to move them?
Dave,
They are movable under load, you don't need to change your heading. You do need to give it a strong tug to move it forward, but you do have the purchase power of the blocks. It's basically the friction that you need to overcome. I think the other manufacturers have a better bearing system that minimizes friction under load. The Garhauer unit does have bearings, but the design is not that refined. Then again, the less expensive cost really makes them a good buy. It helps if you keep the track clean. Everytime I rinse my boat, I let the water shoot down the track and through the movable car to get the dirt and grime out. You might also try McLube, although I've just tried to keep it clean with water.
Roc,
I'm not so sure it's the friction that's involved in moving the cars forward. If you look at the geometry of it you'll see that you're actually tensioning the jib sheet when you move the car forward. I think that is most of the load on the adjusting line.
The friction I'm referring to is the fact that the cars wobble on the track. They don't seem to keep alignment with the track....tightly. I'm guessing that when the cars are pulled upward, from the sheet, and maybe off to the side somewhat, they might not slide smoothly. This is just a guess based on my use of these over the years. I agree, moving forward, you're fighting the jib sheet...that's obvious. But my theory on the friction really stems from when you try to pull the car back, it really doesn't slide easily. You need to help it along. Thus, my guess on the misalignment.
Hmmm... I wonder if your track is different than mine (a Mk 1.5, 1990)? The cars fit perfectly on my OEM track with virtually no "wobble," though as I said earlier, the groove was a little narrow and had to be widened in one section on one side, but that was due to the track not being perfectly centered in the groove.
Jon,
When I say wobble, I mean there is some play. I've never shaken a Harken or Lewmar car system, maybe theirs have the same amount of play. There has to be some movement, I just thought the Garhauer may have a bit more. About the tracks, on the MKII, they are not in a groove in the deck, as I suppose yours is. I believe Garhauer makes a special car for the models with the track mounted inside the groove.
Roc- you're right that my track is embedded in a groove. It's possible that they make a different car for such installations, though I don't recall Guido at Garhauer advising me of such options at the time (but this was nearly three years ago). I suppose there is a touch more play in my EZGlide versus a Harken traveler car that I had on another boat, but it's hard to say, since the tracks and geometry are much different. I can say that I don't see any real difference in the machining between the upgraded Garhauer traveler car that I have and the EZGlide cars. As has already been said, the EZGlide cars probably don't compare to the movement of ultra-high-end products, but they're an amazing value and work just fine for me.
My 1988 #707 has a depress track but I bought the special cars that were machined for fitting in the groove with no interference. In order to move the car forward under high load conditions, Guido fixed me with a 6/1 purchase instead of the normal 4/1. Even with lots a wind and the gib very tight,! can move it forward quite nicely. By connecting the return line on the cabin side wall you can get a better direct pull. :clap
Good luck, dave
I think what Dave just said is the key, getting direct pull, in line with the track. In my pictures, the swivel cam is mounted on the track, so when moving the car forward, the cam keeps the pull in line to the car. I ran the end of the line through a block mounted on the stern rail. So when pulling the car back, again, the line is positioned so it's a direct pull. By being in the cockpit, and having the lines run through in this way, you can always have a good forward and back pull on the car.
I have been reviewing the C350 forum and there was a comment about these EZ Glide replacement cars cracking the windows as they do not have an inboard tip over preventer.
Any comments?
That would be impossible, at least if all C34s have the track in roughly the same place. The lead can hit the coaming just aft of the bulkhead pretty hard in stiff breeze. I keep meaning to run a thick rubber strip along the area, but in the meantime, I simply move the car forward of the bulkhead before tacking.
Dave Davis,
I am looking at setting the same system up and was wondering a couple of things. Do you have the forward pull line going through the forward block on the 6:1 setup with no alignment loop like Roc pictures show? Also how do you secure the forward pull line. Also, what kind of setup do you have on the cabin side to hold the line in alignment.
Thanks, DaveM
I was at the strictly sail (Miami) last week and I saw the Garhauer booth. They had the EZ glide system on display and since I had my camera I took a few pictures of it...right from the table display. Hope that will help someone
There seems to be some communication problem having to do with the method used to haul the lead forward. The line is sent up on the side of the cockpit as shown on the attached photo. the photo makes it clear. The text is not very clear. You know, 1000 words---
This Photo shows the position of the lead line much better than the text.
See Photo
Guys...just to let you know that I had the chance to try my new EZ Glide for the first time this past w-e. I'm very happy with it and the pointing of the boat has improved by 12-15° !!! I never dawn on my that the adjustment would make such a BIG difference. The truth is that the admiral prefers to relax/read than participate in manoeuvre so many time my car wasn't at the right adjustments so I sailled that way. Now, if there's any change in my directions or wind, a kick pull or release on the sheet will adjust accordingly.
It's by far the best upgrade I've ever made to the boat so for some 400$ it's really worth it. I highly recommend it and if you have problems pointing, that will help you tremendously.
It went on very easily....the only adjustment I had to made is that the fore block has a 3/8" bolt (with a large slotted head) and, unless you want the bolt to hold the block in place by simple pressure on the track - I was afraid that it might slip under some heavy pressure, so a friend of mine (tool maker) brought the bolts home and with is lathe turned it to 5/16" to fit the hole in the tracks. Now the bock is held in place by the bolt "in" the track not "on" the track.
Some housekeeping: a link to an installation for older boat recessed tracks: http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,4524.0.html