I installed a black 8" ABS/plastic port to make this job more user friendly. Port was placed 5" from the bottom of the side panel and right in the middle.
You have to take the rear engine cover off and taking off the raw water valve access door helps. I scribed a circle off a 8.5 inch plate, then drilled four 1/2" holes at the four compass points and then ran my jigsaw north and south. Each quarter cut easily and no blades whewre broken. Use a real flat port as there are space considearations. The port should not be more than 1/2" in width. I rolled back the insulation barrier to cut the hole and then cut a vertical and horizontal slit in the barrier. This preserves it. Just push it in when acessing the zinc or end cap. When installing the barrier back on do not tighten the screws very much as they will penetrate through the panel and destroy your teak look! Total cost $15.
Sounds like a doable project for the Jenny Jewel. How about some pictures!!
Joe
Here is a picture of the HX door I installed. I bought the teak fro H&L Marine in CA. They have a molding made for door and drawer frames. They also have planks in various thicknesses and widths you can use for the door. Easy to make. Just cut the frame sections and dowel and glue together. Buy the plank the correct size and assemble using a piano hinge. I used a door latch purchased from Catalina to make the door look OEM.
That looks great Roc. Nice job.
Roc, that looks like terrific access. Thanks for the pictures and the tips re material access.
Now, has anyone come up with anything as good for port side access to the starter and solenoid?