Great forum! Just started lurking...
Just put a deposit on a very nice 2007 Catalina 34 MK II. Questions.
- What to double check with the marine survey - I will be there.
- Is there an owners manual online?
- 700 hours on engine - survey required?
- Furling main - what to check
- Any other "gotchas?"
It has been sailing here in SD and I will keep it here.
Congrats! Exciting times.
Yes the owners manual can be found in the Tech Wiki here under Documents
Yes you should always have a mechanical survey done (including oil sample analysis) as part of the purchase process, regardless of the engine hours. It'll be the best bang for the buck you'll ever spend on the boat.
A few thoughts off the top of my head RE key things to look for during the survey:
-Through hulls in good condition and seacocks move freely? I have 7 on my MK2
-Condition of the engine mounts?
-Holding tank & hoses not leaking? Would suck to replace these
-Fuel tank not leaking? This would also suck to replace but usually a surveyor wouldn't have access to this unfortunately, unless the owner allows the surveyor to remove one of the cabin aft panels to inspect it
-Hot water tank not leaking?
-How old is the dripless bellows (apparently should be replaced every 6-7 years). If no dripless shaft seal, is the shaft log hose in good shape and stuffing box not leaking excessively at rest?
-When I was boat shopping, I always looked at the bilge: is it dry and clean, or is it full of swampy liquid? I also looked at the engine bilge: clean or dirty?
-Condition of standing rigging?
-Condition of the sails?
-Any soft spots on the deck, evidence of water intrusion? Chain plates and area under steering pedestal are two important places to check
-Underside: any blisters? cutlass bearing good? keel: any evidence of grounding or separation?
-Lastly ask the owner for a maintenance log. A good owner should have one, which will give you insight into how the boat has been maintained.
QuoteJust put a deposit on a very nice 2007 Catalina 34 MK II. Questions.
Congratulations! Hope you enjoy her as much as I enjoy Shamrock. Andy's list is pretty complete. Catalina delt with most of the "critical updates" listed here on late model MKIIs. Don't be disappointed by lack of a Maintenace log, brokers I know tell the owners to get rid of them, only bring up questions. I do keep a detailed maintenance log.
Sounds like the boat had light use, that's both good and bad, a lot of small problems may show up at first. Just be prepared to deal with them and don't get discouraged. Catalina is great at parts being available and of course lots of help here.
Jim
Thanks so much - great list! I did look at all the bilges and they looked good.
krafty,
The owners manual should come with the boat along with a maintenance manual for the motor usually kept in the nav station. If it's missing I'd want to know why. At 700hrs the motor is basically just broken in. You should be able to tell if there's a problem with the furler during the test sail. It wouldn't be a bad idea to remove both panels in the aft cabin before the surveyor gets there.
Welcome aboard Andy:
This is a great place. Best help in a hurry. Enjoy your new boat, the adventure begins
Phil
New question - are there special sheets for the fore and aft berths? Recommendations?
You can make them, pay someone to make them or buy them already made from "The Catalina Yacht Store" online. That is where I bought mine.
Our 97 Mk2 came with comfortable mattresses forward and aft with good quality mattress protectors. We bought inexpensive king size sheets for both berths, and just tuck in any excess.
Shamrock came with a vberth mattress toper and fitted sheet that the PO had just purchased from "Tuffted Topers" I really like them. Did take a few tries to figure out how to put them on easily. Marked the bow end and it's no problem putting them on. I don't think that company is business anymore, shame. As Noah said "Catalina Yacht Store" sells the fitted sheets. A word of caution that's different than "Catalina Direct" many people confuse the two.
Jim
Krafty : We made our own tailored sheets(regular & flannel) ourselves. Easy to do!! :thumb:
A few thoughts
Ron: sure, easy if you have a sewing machine and/or lots of time on your hands (literally). ;-)
Survey, test sail, haul out, mech survey complete. 2007 Catalina 34 MK II in great shape. Following issues ID'd.
- Engine mounts bad - excessive vibration at idle
- Shaft seal leaks too much
- Zinc need to be replaced on prop
- Fuel filter bracket broken
- Some wiring secured with wing nuts vice marine connections
- No input to Ray marine console from windbird, direction or velocity
- No engine alarms at helm
- no bilge alarm
- No alarms for smoke, CO2, bilge
Sails and rigging look good, rest of the boat in good shape.
Thanks for your comments, I was ready today!
krafty81,
Sounds like your going to buy. Congratulations!
My 2cents on the survey
Engine mounts maybe maybe not I'd look close before changing.
shaft seal is just maintenance. May be time for new packing.
Zinks are maintenance.
Fuel filter bracket. In the back of my mind think there was a factory, Westerbake, notice about that. Caused by lack of radius on the stamping.
Not sure what is up with the wing nut.
Wind instrument not working. Hope that's a bad plug or connection.
No engine alarms. For me that was the alarm buzzer. Changed to a generic louder one.
Alarms I don't have a bilge alarm, don't think it's necessary. I do have a CO alarm, put that in when I bought my Honda generator.
That's just my thoughts while having my second cup of coffee.
Consider putting your boat information in your signature. Helps getting the right answer. Also your home port, location helps with answers and you just might find a nearby sister ship.
Jim
@krafty81
Sounds like a sweet boat cha got dere!
Which engine is in her -- a "B" I presume -- there could be other whatchoutfors in the factory bulletins that your surveyor might not be aware of.
There is a trove of boat Owner and Engine Owner and Parts and Service Manuals and Kubota Parts Manuals on the TechWiki Site.
Be aware if the engine isolators need to be replaced you might have to open a new line of credit. The mounting fitment on the OEM B-engine isolators is non-standard so, without doing a dance to make the K75s (about $320 for 4) work, you're stuck with the Westerbeke ripoffs at ~$425 (that's X 4, not total cost) + labor. I would think about negotiating that into the final closing price.
How is the engine harness?
No engine alarms at the helm sounds fishy. Obviously, low oil pressure and high temp alarms should be working. It is not unusual for the harness to be the issue (you will learn that Westerbeke installed a crappy wiring harness and a convoluted wiring scheme on B engines.) With the "Westerbeke system" it can be a frustrating nightmare to troubleshoot the cause of and fix the no-alarm situation, or it could be an easy fix. It's a 50-50 shot.
Pictures?!
-Ken
Thanks. Funny that the two things I noted on this forum to look out for were engine mounts and wiring harness, both with problems on an otherwise very nice boat.
Surveyor recommended a 35 lb. Bruce/spade style anchor instead of the 22. We do go offshore/coastal from time to time here. What do you folks think?
I would not buy a Bruce anchor for my primary. I have a 35lb Mantus M1. It's an excellent anchor, sets easily and solidly the first time. Others here swear by Rocna. If you want to watch independant real life testing of all sorts of anchors, watch the YouTube channel SV Panope. Very helpful in making an expensive, and critical equipment decision.
Had bad luck with a Bruce anchor on a charter in the BVI. Other anchor was a CQR and worked much better. My C34 had a 35# CQR ant also worked well. Current boats (20' sloop and 25' pontoon) use Rocnas and they work well. I hear good things about the Mantus from other sources. 35# is probably the right size for whatever you choose. Just back it up with lots of chain. IIRC, Rocna recommends chain equal to at least the length of the boat(?).
What about this one?
https://sandiego.craigslist.org/nsd/bpo/d/escondido-manson-supreme-anchor-35lbs/7774546075.html
Can't find the answer on the forum though I am sure it is here. Where do I find the hull number for the boat?
I had a 35# Manson Supreme. After watching the tests for setting and re-setting on the channel I mentioned above, I switched to a 35# Mantus. I just sold my old Manson Supreme at our anual marina swap meet.
HIN location -
https://www.c34.org/faq-pages/faq-hin.html
It will start with CTNYP nnnn but could be worn down and nearly unreadable.
On the C34.org home page there is a Google enhanced search box that is sometimes more helpful than the search feature on the Forum. On the bottom starboard side of the page.
This is on a phone but it's nearly the same on a PC browser:
Quote from: KWKloeber on August 28, 2024, 03:34:33 PMHIN location -
https://www.c34.org/faq-pages/faq-hin.html
It will start with CTNYP nnnn but could be worn down and nearly unreadable.
On the C34.org home page there is a Google enhanced search box that is sometimes more helpful than the search feature on the Forum. On the bottom starboard side of the page.
This is on a phone but it's nearly the same on a PC browser:
Found it thanks!
BTW,
There is a second "hidden" HIN per CG requirements somewhere below, but I do not know its location on the C-34s.
Quote from: krafty81 on August 29, 2024, 08:29:20 AMQuote from: KWKloeber on August 28, 2024, 03:34:33 PMHIN location -
https://www.c34.org/faq-pages/faq-hin.html
It will start with CTNYP nnnn but could be worn down and nearly unreadable.
On the C34.org home page there is a Google enhanced search box that is sometimes more helpful than the search feature on the Forum. On the bottom starboard side of the page.
This is on a phone but it's nearly the same on a PC browser:
Found it thanks!
My hidden HIN number was on a sticker glassed over on the Starboard side of transverse bulkhead underneath the v-berth.
One more question - the Raymarine console does not show wind speed or direction. At the top of the mast, the wind sensor is spinning and the pointer points. Looks like a pretty new install of the multi-function screen. Any idea what the issue could be? Trying to get a feel for the scope of the repair. Will be back on the boat pierside in a few days, wondering if there is any troubleshooting I could do at that time. Have not closed the deal yet.
Quote from: krafty81 on August 30, 2024, 02:30:18 PMthe wind sensor is spinning and the pointer points.
Are you looking at the Windex aft of the mastead or the Raymarine forward of the masthead?
Picture?
Quote from: krafty81 on August 30, 2024, 02:30:18 PMOne more question - the Raymarine console does not show wind speed or direction. At the top of the mast, the wind sensor is spinning and the pointer points. Looks like a pretty new install of the multi-function screen. Any idea what the issue could be? Trying to get a feel for the scope of the repair. Will be back on the boat pierside in a few days, wondering if there is any troubleshooting I could do at that time. Have not closed the deal yet.
Because you have not closed yet I would say not much troubleshooting you could do. No easy things like a fuse. I suggest you bring binoculars with you and take a close look at the wind vane from the dock, look closely at the connection and wire at the masthead. That's all that can be done without digging in and tracking wiring.
Each install is a bit different so there's no way to tell without seeing it. Basically there's wires to the back of the gage, probably to a distribution block and other instruments, ie autopilot, then to the mast base where there is another connection, then up the mast. Not easy troubleshooting.
I would not assume it was correct to begin with, it may not have ever worked.
I know it's not the answer you were looking for. It could be a simple connector problem or anything else in the system.
Jim
Ask the owner for details on how the system is wired (is it connected to a network?), and for any documentation of the system parts like age and model number. It may have an itc-5 module the wind instrument connects to, if so where is it located? All will make future troubleshooting easier.
Great suggestions thanks! Since the autopilot is a seperate system I am wondering if there is a way to check the wind input to that device while sitting on the pier. At least then I know it is feeding another device or if it is not. I will pass those questions to the owner.
Krafty, below is a link to the itc5 which interfaces your instruments if one is present. Which chartplotter do you have? If it's an older model your instruments will plug into the rear of the plotter. Newer plotters use a SeaTalkng network system which requires an itc-5 module which then plugs into the plotter.
I had issues with my old c80 plotter and i6o wind instrument not seeing wind speed or direction, and now my Axiom + with the itc-5 works well. My itc5 is mounted at the forward end of the port side cockpit locker.
If you do have an itc5 the LEDs on the instrument will help you trouble shoot. If yours is an older system the only way to find the source of the problem is to access the cable ends behind the plotter, at he mast head, or in the junction box which sits inside the bottom of the mast. That box connects the instrument wire in the mast to the wire which runs down into the boat through the compression post and back to the plotter.
Best of luck
https://www.raymarine.com/en-us/download/itc-5-manuals
The survey says it is a "C series" so I assume it is the older one. Will be going back to the boat tomorrow. I had them ask the current owner if it has ever worked or he just never connected it. Will bring binocs to look at the top of the mast as best we can. Thanks for the link.
Our C80 was no longer supported by Raymarine. When I spoke to tech support in 2021 no one working there knew much about that series of plotter. The map functions and the GPS position worked well, but the GPS date wasn't updating and wind data wasn't available.
You may want to determine what you want in a new system and negotiate with the seller so you can replace the plotter with a current model. We went with a 12"Axiom+, new i70 multi function display, new wind instrument, and an EV-100 wheel pilot.
It was a lot of money but the performance improvement was worth it. The 34Mk2 is a great boat and yours will be 10 years newer than ours.
Best of luck
I would be happy with the current plotter if it displayed wind data. Plenty of other expenses in taking on this boat right now. Will see what I can figure out.
Panel looks like I have a Raymarine c97 display. That does not come up under C-series manuals, however.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/176487228088?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-213727-13078-0&mkcid=2&itemid=176487228088&targetid=4581046493380278&device=c&mktype=&googleloc=&poi=&campaignid=603247657&mkgroupid=1239150647972013&rlsatarget=pla-4581046493380278&abcId=9316139&merchantid=51291&msclkid=8c188423929616490b0fe2f6dc85d992
So visited the boat today. The anemometer is not spinning. The wind direction DOES indicate on the display. After getting the boat, will be heading up the mast to check that out!
Sometimes it's as simple as spiders messing up the pivot
Small issue. The main table down below wobbles. It is not the bolted in collar around it, just that the table wobbles in the collar. Thinking about stuffing a piece of rubber in there. Any ideas?
QuoteThe main table down below wobbles. It is not the bolted in collar around it, just that the table wobbles in the collar. Thinking about stuffing a piece of rubber in there. Any ideas?
There're some attempted fixes written up here, search and read but none really stops the wobble. I got tired of the wobble and put a brace under the table to the compression post. No more wobble, can cut a steak without spilling wine. :thumb: A couple of taped holes into the compression post and one screw on the bottom of the table. Can't see the mod, hasn't been a problem for me, and if I do want to move the table it's only one screw.
Tried to post pictures, but not working like it used to. Darn computer "upgrades".
Jim
Jim
Is it defo that the tube wobbles and it's not the sole that allows movement?
The C-30 dinette layout saloon table has a weak sole "problem" that drove me crazy with table wobble, but I fixed that easy peazy like.
Quote from: KWKloeber on September 10, 2024, 10:38:33 AMJim
Is it defo that the tube wobbles and it's not the sole that allows movement?
The C-30 dinette layout saloon table has a weak sole "problem" that drove me crazy with table wobble, but I fixed that easy peazy like.
The bracket around the pole is solid, it wobbles inside the bracket. Will try a piece of rubber in there first.
Quote from: krafty81 on September 11, 2024, 01:02:40 PMQuote from: KWKloeber on September 10, 2024, 10:38:33 AMJim
Is it defo that the tube wobbles and it's not the sole that allows movement?
The C-30 dinette layout saloon table has a weak sole "problem" that drove me crazy with table wobble, but I fixed that easy peazy like.
The bracket around the pole is solid, it wobbles inside the bracket. Will try a piece of rubber in there first.
A strip of thin rubber (inner tube?) contact-cemented to the inside of the base?
Not knowing precisely the base/tube form factor, this is a guess: an L bracket bolted to the base with a knob that screws into a threaded hole on, or tightens against the tube?
I have a Mk II about the same age as yours. In addition to the other good comments, I would take a close look at the raw water pump. If it hasn't ever been replaced then it almost certainly needs to be. I'd start by looking for signs of water weeping, or rust, around it and, after my own recent experience, I would definitely take the pump off and inspect the slot at the end of the camshaft for undue wear.
I've had to replace a LOT of stuff on my boat. I'm starting to think that at this particular age point, the boat has a lot of OEM stuff that's reaching its end of life. An older boat - it's probably been replaced already. A younger boat, it's probably not yet worn out.
I love the boat so I'm not too fed up with the technical issues but, jeez, it would be nice to get through one season without a serious issue.
Everything checks out good on the new boat. One issue though, is that the shower will not drain in the head. Wondering if a sea cock is closed - is there a good diagram of where they all are on this boat? The owners manual does not show. Thanks.
Quote from: krafty81 on September 21, 2024, 04:17:15 PMEverything checks out good on the new boat. One issue though, is that the shower will not drain in the head. Wondering if a sea cock is closed - is there a good diagram of where they all are on this boat? The owners manual does not show. Thanks.
If it's like Shamrock, there's a sea cock under the galley sink, a valve to the pump, DC circuit breaker think it's marked sump pump and a waterproof switch in the head. Heads up :D the filter/strainer on the pump may be plugged.
FWIW I'm sure there's a plumbing diagram in my owner's manual.
Jim
Our Mk2 has a pump under the galley sink which is activated by the switch in the head and it pumps both the head floor drain and the fridge drain. If your set up is similar and both valves are open you may not be able to drain the shower without closing the fridge drain.
Thanks shower sump pump working great - just need to turn on the switch in the head AND the C/B.
Okay now another issue -
Wife was using water as we were doing a deep cleaning on the interior. I refilled the tank. I left the water pump on when I did it. Now the water gurgles, stops and starts out of kitchen and head faucets. I can also hear the water pump running constantly. Did I screw something up?
The owners manual shows the forward and aft tanks. I only say the fill for "water" forward on the Port bow. Is there a different one? Do you have to select the forward or aft tanks? Not crazy about the Owners Manual!
Thanks!
Quote from: krafty81 on September 22, 2024, 08:06:55 PMThanks shower sump pump working great - just need to turn on the switch in the head AND the C/B.
Okay now another issue -
Wife was using water as we were doing a deep cleaning on the interior. I refilled the tank. I left the water pump on when I did it. Now the water gurgles, stops and starts out of kitchen and head faucets. I can also hear the water pump running constantly. Did I screw something up?
Thanks!
Sounds to me that you have an air lock at the pressure switch of the pump.
The Wiki site has a water pump troubleshooting guide that I uploaded.
I always check the wiki first for issues/fixes because it's easier searching than the forum posts!!
Our 97, Mk2 has isolation valves for both tanks under the galley sink. The fill for the stern tank is located on the starboard side of the transom coaming in the cockpit.
krafty,
The water pump is a positive pressure demand type pump so when the psi drops it starts pumping and will continue to run whether it's pumping water or air until it gets the psi up to the shut off psi (turning off the faucet). Assuming the pump is good it's not pumping water because it doesn't have access to a water supply, could be your water tank valve(s) are shut off or possibly a blockage in the line. I'd start with filling both tanks opening all valves and let it run to see if you can get it flowing.
On Shamrock all the valves and seacocks were and still are marked with a large plastic labels over the attached hoses. Very useful.
Jim
Quote from: scgunner on September 23, 2024, 06:34:28 AMkrafty,
The water pump is a positive pressure demand type pump so when the psi drops it starts pumping and will continue to run whether it's pumping water or air until it gets the psi up to the shut off psi (turning off the faucet). Assuming the pump is good it's not pumping water because it doesn't have access to a water supply, could be your water tank valve(s) are shut off or possibly a blockage in the line. I'd start with filling both tanks opening all valves and let it run to see if you can get it flowing.
How does it know which tank to pull from? Do the valves under the sink control that? I need to label some valves!
Quote from: robbjd on September 23, 2024, 06:20:28 AMOur 97, Mk2 has isolation valves for both tanks under the galley sink. The fill for the stern tank is located on the starboard side of the transom coaming in the cockpit.
Funny the owners manual shows one outboard on starboard side and does not show the one forward on the port side at all.
QuoteHow does it know which tank to pull from? Do the valves under the sink control that? I need to label some valves!
If I remember correctly on Shamrock under sink starboard there's a valve from the aft tank and a valve from the forward tank both plumbed in to a T that feeds the filter/pump. Just open the valve to the wanted tank.
FWIW I only use the forward tank for longer voyages. I believe it's best to use and replace the water more frequently. Also with the anchor, chain, windless and air conditioner all forward I think the trim is a little better with an empty forward tank.
Jim
The fill for the forward tank is located above the tank in the anchor locker. If you're putting water into the "fill" on the port side you're filling your holding tank ! The caps on our Mk2 are all clearly marked, as are the lines from the water tanks under the galley sink.
Thanks! I found the aft tank fill, all the way aft on stbd side unlike owners manual shows. Found the valves under thd sink too! Lo e this forum!
krafty,
The pump doesn't know which tank to pull from it only knows to start pumping when the pressure drops. The valves determine which tank feeds the pump.
Quote from: scgunner on September 24, 2024, 06:41:13 AMkrafty,
The pump doesn't know which tank to pull from it only knows to start pumping when the pressure drops. The valves determine which tank feeds the pump.
Got it and I found them. Set up to pull from aft tank for now. Really appreciate the help and comments!
krafty,
It's just part of getting to know your boat and it's systems along with your preferences. For example I prefer using the front tank because we sleep in the aft cabin and if the aft tank is used it will slosh once it gets down a ways. If you sleep in the V-berth not a problem. These are things you'll learn as you use your boat.
Interesting thread. I thought I knew a lot about "our boats" but apparently still lots to learn. What is the factory standard water tank configuration and how did it change with the years built?
Kevin—Do you have three water tanks? Aft, Starboard and V-berth?
Quote from: Noah on September 25, 2024, 10:31:49 AM>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
What is the factory standard water tank configuration and how did it change with the years built?
Kevin—Do you have three water tanks? Aft, Starboard and V-berth?
Noah,
The first boats came with fwd and strbd tanks,1986 initial models. Around hull #200 in late 1986 they stopped with the fwd tank and put in the aft tank, keeping the strbd tank. I have #224 with an aft tank. It's been aft & strbd ever since.
The only thing that seems to have changed is the strbd tank fill point. I looked at the Mark II manual and it's not as clear as the Mark I manual was. I did that when krafty noted a bow fill point. That bow fill is a long way away from the strbd tank.
Thanks Stu—what confuses me is that Kevin (TopGun) said he "prefers to use his V-Berth tank instead of his aft tank". Which begs the question what happened to his Starboard tank, and does he have three tanks?
Noah, he said "front tank" so he could have meant the strbd one. I can understand your confusion.
Guys,
Just to clear up the confusion in regards to the V-berth I mentioned sleeping there not that I had a tank under the V-berth. In referring to the front and aft tanks that was in reference to the location of the water pump and valves, one tank's ahead of them one behind, maybe I should have been clearer. My boat is an '86 with the standard configuration; one tank under the seat of the dining table, one tank behind the bulkhead in the aft cabin.
Ironically I actually do have a V-berth tank but it was added by me to increase tankage, it's tied into the front tank and also controlled by the front tank valve. It became necessary after I installed a flash water heater and "the Girls" began using water at an alarming rate!
I am still trying to figure out which valves under the sink control where water is coming from. I have a forward (stbd) tank and an aft tank with a fill on the rear stbd quarter. There are multiple unlabeled valves under the sink.
What about dropping some food coloring in one of the tanks?
Craig
krafty,
Multiple? How many is multiple? I've got two valves under the sink the right valve controls the aft tank the left valve controls the fore tank (under the dining seat) that is the factory configuration or at least it is on my boat.
Terry, our Mk2 has a forward tank under the V berth and the aft tank was removed by one of the previous owners. Don't miss the aft tank because of an additional lake water system that we use for washdown, etc. Our beautiful, clean, clear Lake Huron water allows this.
The routing of the tank hoses should be fairly obvious as to which tank they come from. If not, fill both tanks to overflowing, close one of the valves and with the pump running into your sink eyeball the tank level for a change. I found I had to do a thorough cleaning of the forward tank because it wasn't always kept full and mold had grown on the underside of the tank top. I can send a picture of our labelled valve arrangement when I can climb ladders again.
John
Quote from: robbjd on November 11, 2024, 10:59:55 AMTerry, our Mk2 has a forward tank under the V berth and the aft tank was removed by one of the previous owners. Don't miss the aft tank because of an additional lake water system that we use for washdown, etc. Our beautiful, clean, clear Lake Huron water allows this.
The routing of the tank hoses should be fairly obvious as to which tank they come from. If not, fill both tanks to overflowing, close one of the valves and with the pump running into your sink eyeball the tank level for a change. I found I had to do a thorough cleaning of the forward tank because it wasn't always kept full and mold had grown on the underside of the tank top. I can send a picture of our labelled valve arrangement when I can climb ladders again.
John
Thanks, would appreciate a photo. I have tried the "turn on off" thing and it did not stop water flowing.
There's a pretty good drawing in the owners manual. At least on my stock mkii, there are 4 pvc ball valves under the sink plus the 2 thru-hulls. I've marked the PVC ball valves in red and the thru-hulls in blue.
On the port side under the sink are ball valves that turn on the show sump (Aft) or the ice box sump (Forward), and on the starboard side is the fresh water with the aft valve being for the aft tank, forward for the forward. These valves are right next to the thru-hulls.
And in case you are not familiar with those ball valves, the valve is open if the handle is in line with the pipe, closed if the handle is perpendicular to the pipe.
Thanks very helpful! The two on the left are labeled and the other two are not. Great diagram and will look in the owners manual as well.
Two new issues not.
- After boat has been sitting a couple days, engine start is a little sluggish. Usually takes two pushes.
- boat plugged into 30 AMP all the time at the pier
- batteries both test at over 13V
- once I start the engine and shut down, it immeiately starts when I press the button
- one battery has some corrosion on the negative side I need to fix
- Fuel gauge JUST stopped working
- Had filled the tank and it showed full on the gauge and it has always worked since I got the boat
- Mast is currently off getting rewired, I wonder if this has anything to do with that?
- Gauge pegs at below E as soon as it has power. Wiki says bad sender unit maybe?
Any insights appreciated.
QuoteAfter boat has been sitting a couple days, engine start is a little sluggish. Usually takes two pushes
You say sluggish, does that mean the engine is turning over slowly? Turning over slowly sounds like poor battery or poor connection. If the motor turns over good enough but takes some cranking, my guess would be fuel, a small leak or air leak that drains down over time.
Think you are right about the sender. When I first got Shamrock the sender was bad. I took it out and matched with a generic one at the boat parts store, auto supply may have the same. That was about 20 years ago.
hope that helps,
Jim
krafty,
Well the most important thing is that it does start. What's your starting procedure? Mine is as follows, advance throttle 1/4 to a 1/3, press glow plug button for 30 seconds, then release and press ignition button, if your batteries are good it should fire up in a few seconds.
When the ignition is turned on and the fuel gauge immediately pegs it's usually a ground problem in the sending unit.
Quote from: scgunner on November 18, 2024, 06:34:05 AMkrafty,
Well the most important thing is that it does start. What's your starting procedure? Mine is as follows, advance throttle 1/4 to a 1/3, press glow plug button for 30 seconds, then release and press ignition button, if your batteries are good it should fire up in a few seconds.
When the ignition is turned on and the fuel gauge immediately pegs it's usually a ground problem in the sending unit.
Where is the glow plug button?
On the mkii, you turn the key all the way and hold it for a few seconds to light the glowplugs. You'll notice when you release it, it springs back a quarter turn to the run position. Mine normally only takes a couple seconds for the glowplugs to work. Then push the start button and you should be good.
You did mention that the batteries test well at 13 volts? These are lead acid / AGM type batteries? Is there a battery charging running when you're testing them? 13V is a little higher than I would expect unless there is a charger on them. If so, you should take the chargers off and wait an hour or so and test again.
Rob
Krafty,
The location of the glow plug activation varies by the age of the boat and modifications that may have been made by previous owners but, based on your fairly late model hull number, I expect the glow plugs are activated by the key. On my boat I rotate the key to the "on" or "ignition" position, then rotate it farther against a spring to activate my glow plugs. I hold the key against the spring for about 10 seconds and then push the start button while still holding the key in the glow position.
Thanks I will try the extra key rotation. They are newer AGM batteries. Will turn off shore power and test. Also cleaning some corrosion on one of the negative terminals and putting silicone on all terminals.
Explain further "putting silicone on all terminals." What silicone? Silicone Dielectric grease such as Superlube, is good. Don't use silicone sealant! T9 Boeshield sprayed on top of clean, tight connections is another good solution. To stave-off corrosion.
Krafty : I believe on your boat the glow plugs are activated by the spring loaded (momentary) turn of the key. One turn of the key is ON and the next spring loaded position is the Glow Plugs.
I suggest the you take the owners manual and study all of the syatems
A few thoughts
@krafty
The techwiki site has complete Teleflex engine gauge troubleshooting instruction. Start with the steps to troubleshoot the gauge.
It sounds like you might not be preheating enough, but there could be several causes.
Please describe further exactly your steps and exactlt what is happening.
Help us to help you!
To answer questions...
- Both batt test just under 13V w power disconnected.
- Yes it is the right kind of silicone
- Glo plug worked like a champ today!
Thanks again all!
Quote from: krafty81 on November 18, 2024, 07:18:52 PMTo answer questions...
- Both batt test just under 13V w power disconnected.
- Yes it is the right kind of silicone
- Glo plug worked like a champ today!
Thanks again all!
@lrsfty
The techwiki site contains a plethora of manuals for your boat, INCLUDING the Operators Manual on how to operate your engine.
QuoteWhere is the glow plug button?
On Shamrock it's not a button, it's in the key switch, turn the key past the first stop, like cars used to start, hold for a few seconds (max 10 seconds). That also bypasses the low oil pressure alarm and the fuel pump will run.
A friendly suggestion, take some time this winter and peruse the operator's manual.
Hope this helps,
Jim
FWIW. The starting procedure is a little different from other boats. For that reason I've written down the steps/instructions in the event that someone else may need to run her in my absence.
Krafty,
Older boats (like mine) have an ignition key, a glow plug button, and a starter button. Newer boats incorporated the glow plug warmer into the ignition key and eliminated the glow plug button. Different switches, same procedure. Everyone uses the method that works best for them and their boat in the region they're in. Personally when I'm away from the dock I like to burn the glow plugs a bit longer so they're good and hot and fire the motor quickly the first time. Cranking the motor puts a helleva load on the batteries and can draw them down quickly so the less cranking you do the better especially since it sounds like you've only got two batteries.
Thanks, yes I have the owners manual on the boat and by my bed. Reading it often!
The next thing I will look up is how to empty the waste tank when offshore. Assume there is a valve under the sink in the head. Need to energize macerator I think. Anything else?
Krafty
No one but you knows how YOUR boat is set up, but TYPICALLY the tank is pumped out without using the macerator.
TYPICALLY, the macerator discharges to a thru hull, not to the deck pump out hose. HOWEVER, I had mine discharging to the deck pump out (the pump out was VERY weak and I wanted to assist it.) It's now changed back to "normal."
The plumbing diagrams in the Owner's Manual show the flow paths.
Typically the tank outzie hose does NOT have a valve, but no one knows about your boat. Trace the hose back from both ends to learn where and how it runs.
Naturally I don't know the circumstances of the boat purchase - was there no introduction to its systems? Is there a Catalina owner at your marina that could spend a few hours walking you through everything? It would be invaluable. I had to learn but "knew boats" still it would have been a head start had I had someone to show me.
Thanks. Learning as I go. Broker offered to go over systems with me "for an hourly fee". I said no thanks.
Krafty,
The broker wants to charge you for what should have been part of his commission. What a dick!
Quote from: krafty81 on November 21, 2024, 11:26:33 PMThanks. Learning as I go. Broker offered to go over systems with me "for an hourly fee". I said no thanks.
Depending on where you are there's a ton of CTY owners in the SD area!
Quote from: KWKloeber on November 22, 2024, 10:47:49 AMQuote from: krafty81 on November 21, 2024, 11:26:33 PMThanks. Learning as I go. Broker offered to go over systems with me "for an hourly fee". I said no thanks.
Depending on where you are there's a ton of CTY owners in the SD area!
Open to a meetup! My boat is at Pt Loma Naval Station
Krafty : Think I would have put a "Stop Payment!!" on that broker.
You are probably best to talk to a Catalina owner especially a C34 mkII like yours (close production year).
A thought
A few years ago I met a "new to them" C34 owner at a local nautical park. She explained that she'd convinced her husband to get a sailboat after having motorboats for many years, and asked if I could explain some things about her boat to her. Her most basic question, as I recall, was where the anti-siphon valve for the head plumbing was located. I have a Mark I she has a Mark II. It wasn't in the nav station locker and I finally found it behind the TP roll in the head. But when I asked her if he'd looked at her boat manual...she was also unaware of our website. Point being, you may be abler to save a new owner some time, but nothing beats learning for yourself given the enormous amount of information found right here, including just about every single manual, and nothing you can't find on the internet, you know all that stuff many of us did not have available a quarter of a century or more ago. Good luck happy learning. :D
Guys : Let me expand on Stu's comment. There was NOTHING but the Mainsheet tech notes that were published every quarter!! There was NO INTERNET. This site did not exist until about 1999!! and when we first got started you had to print everything!!!
A few thoughts
Ron's right.
In the Quick Start Guide sticky on this forum I wrote, in 2009 - fifteen years ago:
"My PO, who was meticulous, did the wiring harness but NOT the alternator bracket or the traveler thru bolts. How did I know about these things, like 10 years ago, before this board? I read the material. And this was before this MB. He'd kindly provided me with the copies of all the Mainsheet magazines since 1987. So, I contributed to the Association by actually creating the Index, which we then grew into the Tech Notes Online (available to C34IA members) AND the Index here (free for everybody)."
Thanks for all the great info. 6K later, I think all is good to go!
Quote from: krafty81 on November 26, 2024, 09:07:39 PM6K later, I think all is good to go!
Congrats. But $6K later for what?
Quote from: Noah on November 27, 2024, 08:55:14 AMQuote from: krafty81 on November 26, 2024, 09:07:39 PM6K later, I think all is good to go!
Congrats. But $6K later for what?
Change all standing rigging, all wiring in mast which was bad - VHF, many lights and Raymarine Windex. Some running rigging replaced. New VHF radio, ITC5 relocated, fuel gauge fixed. New main cleat put in as backup for the winch.
Quote from: krafty81 on November 27, 2024, 02:04:05 PMQuote from: Noah on November 27, 2024, 08:55:14 AMQuote from: krafty81 on November 26, 2024, 09:07:39 PM6K later, I think all is good to go!
Congrats. But $6K later for what?
Change all standing rigging, all wiring in mast which was bad - VHF, many lights and Raymarine Windex. Some running rigging replaced. New VHF radio, ITC5 relocated, fuel gauge fixed. New main cleat put in as backup for the winch.
That's not too bad of a list. If that's all you had to do to get her going, then well done you've bought yourself a well-maintained boat!
Quote from: AndyBC on November 27, 2024, 08:35:25 PMQuote from: krafty81 on November 27, 2024, 02:04:05 PMQuote from: Noah on November 27, 2024, 08:55:14 AMQuote from: krafty81 on November 26, 2024, 09:07:39 PM6K later, I think all is good to go!
Congrats. But $6K later for what?
Change all standing rigging, all wiring in mast which was bad - VHF, many lights and Raymarine Windex. Some running rigging replaced. New VHF radio, ITC5 relocated, fuel gauge fixed. New main cleat put in as backup for the winch.
That's not too bad of a list. If that's all you had to do to get her going, then well done you've bought yourself a well-maintained boat!
Fully mission capable...for now anyway!