I've got to replace traveller control lines and am obsessing over diameter, so I figure this is the right place to discuss!
Looks like what is coming out is 7/16 but Catalina specs say 5/16 for Garhauer traveller.
I know the smaller line is a little less easy to handle but we have problems once in a while with existing control line jumping the blocks or otherwise getting fouled, maybe because the line is too big?
Would appreciate opinions and experience regarding this 2/16 difference, thanks.
Replaced traveler control lines on Shamrock this past season. 5/16 is what was there and is what I replaced it with brand stayset if I remember right. Haven't had any problems before or after. The original lines were getting well worn by the cam cleats.
I'm surprised that 7/16 line would fit at all. That is unless you have a different traveler.
Jim
I did this a few months back...used 5/16 - works great - but don't see why 7/16 would not fit.
Definitely 7/16 was in there, but that may be why we had problems with the line fouling.
I'm also planning to run the traveller control lines to new cabin top cam cleats as is described in older posts on this board so we can adjust from the cockpit and not have to reach into and under the dodger. I'd like to run them both to the port side but that may be a bridge too far for this iteration.
Here's another one. The mainsheet is also in need of replacement. I just measured it and what's in there is 9/16 and Catalina specs call for 7/16.
I'm starting to think the PO added 2/16th to the running rigging specs, maybe because the line is easier to handle or as a safety cushion.
Same here, I replaced mine last winter and used 5/16. PO had 7/16 line that did not move as freely as the 5/16. I have the original traveler system and I cannot pull the boom towards windward under a load. I am toying with upgrading the traveler so I if you have that in mind you may want to wait because the upgrade requires longer lines and save yourself 40 bucks.
which traveller upgrade? I'm considering upgrading the 20-year-old Garhauer that is there with the same but newer MT-2.
Wing : My Mk II owners manual shows a 5:1 pully system from the factory. My MK I came with a 3:1 and I upgraded to the 5:1.
I believe that may be the upgrade mentioned.
You can check with Garhauer on their traveler options and decide. Do that before you purchase new 5/16" line so you get the correct length.
BTW, I tried 3/8" line and it is way tooo heavy so I changed back. I like Sampson Line from Defender as the color does NOT fade like WM line!!!
A few thoughts
If the line is too large it WILL bind, eventually. Not at first, but once it swells the sheaves will stop working, even for when you drop the traveler before you tack. When I upgraded my traveler in 2000 to the M-2, I bought 3/8" line, figuring it would be a "better hand." Four years later I realized my error and switched back to 5/16".
3/8 = 6/16, which means 7/16 is even larger.
Please save yourself grief, aggravation and money, and buy the right size line to begin with.
Stu: yep, I'm convinced that 5/16 is the way to go, that's what Garhauer confirmed as well. PO must have wanted additional security because all the lines seem to be overspec'd.
I'm contemplating a new traveller and am thinking about running both control lines to the port side of the cockpit as was suggested in an older post. It would be more convenient to operate both from the same side but it is significantly more complicated install than just running them on each side of cockpit where they are now, so weighing the pros and cons.
Another question for the board: should/can I bolt new cam cleats/halyard control blocks directly to the cabin top or should I fabricate and bolt a mounting piece first and then bolt the cam cleats to that? If I do the latter, there would be fewer holes in the cabin top and replacing the cam cleats eventually wouldn't mean rebedding, etc.
Ron: Sampson line seems significantly less expensive than New England, may give it a try.
When I buy rope for an off-season project often go to Hamilton's site, they discount reel ends and I usually find what's needed. May take some time for the right rope to show up.
https://shop.hamiltonmarine.com/departments/rope-deals-%7CRO%7CROC.html
Jim
Jim: thanks for the tip, perfect site for a rope hound like myself!
wingman, several years ago I bought a new 6:1 traveler from Garhauer, which came with 5/16" rope. I had it set up to lead rope to each side, much easier for crew to man each side. If you want, go to 3/8" line, but as all have stated, 7/16" is too big. The new traveler made a huge improvement in ease of use. I sent to old bar to Guido to use a template so all configured correctly. FWIW....Jeff
Jeff: yep, 5/16 is the way to go. Now I am planning out rigging the lines to the cockpit.
I take it Guido is the Catalina guy at Garhauer? I talked to someone named David who seemed fairly knowledgeable.
Quote from: wingman on November 13, 2020, 09:41:12 AM
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I take it Guido is the Catalina guy at Garhauer? I talked to someone named David who seemed fairly knowledgeable.
Not quite.
Anyone and everyone at Garhauer is THE Catalina expert. Why? Because Garhauer has been the OEM provider for blocks on our boats for decades. My 1986 boat had Garhauer gear on it from the factory. IIRC, David might well be the owner's son. I met him at the Oakland, CA boat show in the late 90s, soon after I bought our boat, which came with the old style Garhauer blocks. I've replaced the mainsheet system, the traveler (old 3:1 to the newer M-2) and a split backstay adjuster and vang.
Since owning Sedona Sunset,1986, for 16 seasons now, I have replaced the traveler, boom blocks, all clutches, new blocks for rope vang, deck blocks, from Garhauer., the only item I have not replaced is to a rigid vang, I'm saving that for the next guy. At the time, all suggested building a relationship Guido as he knows all about the older boats with great knowledge of the up grades. I'll agree with Stu, that by know, all employees at Garhauer all all quite proficient in their knowledge of the Catalina boats, but, I will maintain, that owners of the original C34's MK1's, if an upgrade is needed, ask for Guido, he's the guru.
I agree with Stu that anyone you talk to at Garhauer is very familiar with Catalinas. I believe that the owner still owns a Catalina and his son Mark used to own a Catalina 36.
All : Last time I talked with Bill Felgenhauer, he owned a C35. Years ago he told me (chuckling) that Gerry Douglas's C36 hull had blisters!!
As Stu said I also used 3/8" for an easier hand grip, but it was tooo thick and change back to 5/16" line
A few thoughts
Follow up on traveller control line replacement/re-rigging project:
On great advice from Jim H, checked out Hamilton and got 100' of 5/16 sta set for easily a third of what it would've cost "on sale" at West Marine or Defender, even paying for shipping.
Put in my first eye splice, although I had to cut it off and start over three times to get it to work. Good thing I got a lot of extra rope.
Now working on re-rigging the fairlead on the traveller control lines for ease of adjustment. Like to move the cam cleats from the ends of the traveller to the cabin top/cockpit, but doesn't look like I really have room between dodger, winches, hatches, and rope clutches, etc., see pic.
I've seen examples of re-running them on different configurations of MkIs, but wondering if anyone with an MkII has found a good solution.
QuotePut in my first eye splice, although I had to cut it off and start over three times to get it to work. Good thing I got a lot of extra rope.
Wingman, FWIW I also redid my eye splices. Found that I first had too much core pulled through ie the eye was correct size but the over lap (stiff part) would get in the way of the traveler when adjusted all the way. Worked but not quite right. Remade following the directions more closely and spike-tight seized the eye splice.
Jim
Jim, good tip, thanks. I'll make sure the new overlap isn't any longer than on the old line, which worked ok. By spike-tight sized you mean you got the eye as small as possible using a spike?
I'm going to put in an eye splice on a couple of new halyards as well, any issues with overlap (or other issues) to be aware of in that application? I suppose if I keep the overlap and eye similar to the old lines I will be ok.
Wingman,
I misspelled and may have used seized and should have used whipped. Try
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZbYWbZAPwxk
As far as spike-tight, pull each wrap tight with a marlin spike with marlin spike hitch rather than just hand tight. That way the whip is very tight and I don't feel the crossing are necessary. Although they do look good.
Jim
thanks Jim, excellent video.
Wing : I still like to uses a bowline for the halyard attachment.
It make it easy then when you end for end the halyard to spread out the wear!!
If you are determined to splice, I like to finish off the splice with a piece of heat shrink (black or clear). Just slide it on before starting, then slide it over the tapered finish and hit it with a heat gun. Easier than whipping!!
A thought
Quote from: Ron Hill on December 13, 2020, 01:46:39 PM
Wing : I still like to uses a bowline for the halyard attachment.
It make it easy then when you end for end the halyard to spread out the wear!!
If you are determined to splice, I like to finish off the splice with a piece of heat shrink (black or clear). Just slide it on before starting, then slide it over the tapered finish and hit it with a heat gun. Easier than whipping!!
Ron, decided to teach myself how to splice this winter as pandemic therapy!