Does anyone have a good source for the 90 degree metal elbow fitting used to join the 7/8" hose just above the oil filter? See attached photo in the circle. While I'm asking, I'm also looking for the 90 degree rubber hose coming off the water pump. See attached photo indicated by the arrow.
Hose: M25 and M25XP Freshwater Coolant Hose 1" to 7/8" TOYOTA Source
http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,7084.0.html
Elbow: go to a plumbing supplier or Home Depot
I ordered this. Works great. Even bought a spare.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C2UA6A/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Rob
Jim
20 yrs ago I eliminated the 1" to 7/8" and fabbed the fitting below at the dock using copper sweat fittings. It is an old pic (old alt mount, not what you need -- but it shows the idea.) The OD of 3/4" tubing is close to 7/8" and the OD of the hub end of sweat fittings is close to 1". You can make a similar 90" elbow, 7/8" to 7/8".
Or search for a "long turn" copper elbow (see link:)
http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,3510.msg46481.html#msg46481
Long turn isn't critical, so you can make one from two short lengths of 3/4 tubing sweated in a 90 ell. Or from two 45 elbows to make a longer turn. If you want to double clamp, make the surface as long as you want with longer tubing off the elbow(s.)
https://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/gates,20693,bypass+hose,2155
Quote from: KWKloeber on May 06, 2019, 09:23:20 AM
Jim
20 yrs ago I eliminated the 1" to 7/8" and fabbed the fitting below at the dock using copper sweat fittings. It is an old pic (old alt mount, not what you need -- but it shows the idea.) The OD of 3/4" tubing is close to 7/8" and the OD of the hub end of sweat fittings is close to 1". You can make a similar 90" elbow, 7/8" to 7/8".
Or search for a "long turn" copper elbow (see link:)
http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,3510.msg46481.html#msg46481
Thanks for the picture validation of using soldered copper fittings. I've been using a 90 degree fitting since installing the M25 about 4 years ago. It's worked flawlessly but soldered joints have worried me so I thought I'd try to locate a brass 90 degree elbow with 7/8" barbs. No luck so far. I will go back with what I have and new hoses if I can't find the elbow. Thanks again!
Long turn isn't critical, so you can make one from two short lengths of 3/4 tubing sweated in a 90 ell. Or from two 45 elbows to make a longer turn. If you want to double clamp, make the surface as long as you want with longer tubing off the elbow(s.)
https://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/gates,20693,bypass+hose,2155
Quote from: Hugh17 on May 06, 2019, 11:44:38 AM
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Thanks for the picture validation of using soldered copper fittings. I've been using a 90 degree fitting since installing the M25 about 4 years ago. It's worked flawlessly but soldered joints have worried me so I thought I'd try to locate a brass 90 degree elbow with 7/8" barbs. No luck so far. I will go back with what I have and new hoses if I can't find the elbow. Thanks again!
Long turn isn't critical, so you can make one from two short lengths of 3/4 tubing sweated in a 90 ell. Or from two 45 elbows to make a longer turn. If you want to double clamp, make the surface as long as you want with longer tubing off the elbow(s.)
https://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/gates,20693,bypass+hose,2155
James,
I edited your post to clarify the quote and your response.
Brass is not a suitable material for that application, or
any on a boat for that matter.
Good thing you didn't. :D
Quote from: sailr4 on May 06, 2019, 08:13:43 AM
I ordered this. Works great. Even bought a spare.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C2UA6A/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Rob
Rob,
Thanks much for the link to Amazon. I found this hose at O'Reilly's, but it's a couple bucks less on Amazon. I ordered it this morning.
James
Quote from: Stu Jackson on May 06, 2019, 05:37:36 PM
Quote from: Hugh17 on May 06, 2019, 11:44:38 AM
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Thanks for the picture validation of using soldered copper fittings. I've been using a 90 degree fitting since installing the M25 about 4 years ago. It's worked flawlessly but soldered joints have worried me so I thought I'd try to locate a brass 90 degree elbow with 7/8" barbs. No luck so far. I will go back with what I have and new hoses if I can't find the elbow. Thanks again!
Long turn isn't critical, so you can make one from two short lengths of 3/4 tubing sweated in a 90 ell. Or from two 45 elbows to make a longer turn. If you want to double clamp, make the surface as long as you want with longer tubing off the elbow(s.)
https://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/gates,20693,bypass+hose,2155
James,
I edited your post to clarify the quote and your response.
Brass is not a suitable material for that application, or any on a boat for that matter.
Good thing you didn't. :D
Thanks, my bad. Yes, Bronze not brass.
Guys,
We're taking the closed coolant system, not sea water. Why is a brass fitting an issue? How about steel on the pressure cap? There's other hose fittings in the closed cooling train that are not bronze.
By the way, ICYDKI -- the Westerbeke/Universal elbows on the Sherwood and Oberdorfer seawater pumps are brass, not bronze.
ken
Quote from: Hugh17 on May 07, 2019, 07:13:12 AM
Quote from: Stu Jackson on May 06, 2019, 05:37:36 PM
Quote from: Hugh17 on May 06, 2019, 11:44:38 AM
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Thanks for the picture validation of using soldered copper fittings. I've been using a 90 degree fitting since installing the M25 about 4 years ago. It's worked flawlessly but soldered joints have worried me so I thought I'd try to locate a brass 90 degree elbow with 7/8" barbs. No luck so far. I will go back with what I have and new hoses if I can't find the elbow. Thanks again!
Long turn isn't critical, so you can make one from two short lengths of 3/4 tubing sweated in a 90 ell. Or from two 45 elbows to make a longer turn. If you want to double clamp, make the surface as long as you want with longer tubing off the elbow(s.)
https://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/gates,20693,bypass+hose,2155
James,
I edited your post to clarify the quote and your response.
Brass is not a suitable material for that application, or any on a boat for that matter.
Good thing you didn't. :D
Thanks, my bad. Yes, Bronze not brass.
Update on replacing the coolant hose elbows coming of the water pump.
Recap - The water pump discharge (front of engine and belt driven) is 1" ID hose fitting or most likely 25.4mm since everything else on the motor is metric. This hose runs from the water pump to the heat exchanger which has a 7/8" fitting. In order to make this run two 90 degree elbows are needed, so the hose has to reduce from 1" to 7/8" and make two 90 degree turns.
Most people seem to make the reduction from 1" to 7/8" in the second 90 degree turn going from the front to the side of the engine under the alternator. It seems impossible to find a barbed fitting to accept a 7/8" ID hose, so all of us seem to struggle coming up with some concoction of a fitting.
I like what Ken did by using 3/4" copper pipe and fitting to make both 90 degree elbows and then using a short piece of 1" hose from the water pump to the copper pipe. My only concern is that that there is very little fitting to apply a clamp. This could be resolved by soldering a coupling fitting over the end of the 3/4' pipe/tubing.
I've come up with two options using parts I already had on each of my engines (the one in the boat and the one I removed when I bought the boat). I will use one and leave the other on the boat as a spare.
First option uses two short pieces of 3/4" copper pipe, a 3/4" 90 degree elbow, and a 3/4" coupling. I made a 1" to 7/8" reducer/90 degree elbow. I will use the suggested Gates 20693 elbow radiator hose from the water pump to this fitting. Others have indicated that this Gates 20693 hose is 1" on one end and 7/8" on the other. Maybe that was the case in the past but it is 1" on both ends now. https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/gates-3728/belts-hoses-16454/hoses-25069/heater---bypass-hoses-16998/bypass-hose-11354/4879cd621d56/gates-hose/20693/4327345 A picture of this homemade fitting is attached. You will see that by adding the coupling over the 3/4" copper pipe I was able to get pretty close to the needed 1". The other end is a perfect tight fitting 7/8". And I've left the ends of the fittings long enough to apply 2 clamps if needed.
The second option uses a 3/4" brass threaded elbow, a 1" barbed fitting and then a copper male threaded fitting & 3/4" copper pipe/tubing for the 7/8" ID hose end. It's a bit bulky but will work. Picture also attached.
<<< Long turn isn't critical, so you can make one from two short lengths of 3/4 tubing sweated in a 90 ell. Or from two 45 elbows to make a longer turn. If you want to double clamp, make the surface as long as you want with longer tubing off the elbow(s.)>>
James just to clarify, you can see that I have it long enough that I could have used a longer hose (the Cu butts against the pump inlet.) But I didn't. I doubt there's room on all the other hose nipples (Hx, etc) to double clamp and since it's not seawater..... I chose to replace just as Univ had it.
Quote from: KWKloeber on May 17, 2019, 07:16:42 AM
<<< Long turn isn't critical, so you can make one from two short lengths of 3/4 tubing sweated in a 90 ell. Or from two 45 elbows to make a longer turn. If you want to double clamp, make the surface as long as you want with longer tubing off the elbow(s.)>>
James just to clarify, you can see that I have it long enough that I could have used a longer hose (the Cu butts against the pump inlet.) But I didn't. I doubt there's room on all the other hose nipples (Hx, etc) to double clamp and since it's not seawater..... I chose to replace just as Univ had it.
.
KWKloeber
Thanks for the clarification. I wasn't being critical. I like what you did. If I were starting over from scratch I'd do the same. I just couldn't tell from the picture if there was much of a nipple inside that hose.
James
J-
No criticalness inferred, and no rebuttal implied. "Just the fax, M'am" - Bruce Willis in Die Hard 2, mimicking Joe Friday :D
-k
I'm unsure what your dillemma is -- it's covered below in this thread.
The adapter I show is a slightly different animal but it's all 3/4" copper tubing from the box box. https://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,10238.msg78875.html#msg78875
3/4 tubing (or a street ell) fits 7/8" hose and the hub end of a 3/4" fitting fits 1" hose (give or take.)
It doesn't need to be sweep fittings but a local plumbing supply would probably have them.
-ken
I believe that you're not fully reading the meat of the previous postings.
Unless you need to extend the length (as I did, or as I explained to increase the clamping area) all you need is a 3/4" copper sweat ell. The OD of a copper street ell is ~7/8 x -1".
If you wanted to extend the length then you'd use a regular ell and solder in a short pc of tubing on one end.
Post a picture of what pump and elbows you have. The correct elbows are (depending on the pump used) 1/2" NPR x 5/8" hose or 3/8" NPT x 5/8" hose.
I prefer straight-in if they fit the engine compartment but on the 30 you can wrestle in a straight-in and a 90 outlet.
Quote from: KWKloeber on December 16, 2020, 03:58:56 PM
Post a picture of what pump and elbows you have. The correct elbows are (depending on the pump used) 1/2" NPR x 5/8" hose or 3/8" NPT x 5/8" hose.
I prefer straight-in if they fit the engine compartment but on the 30 you can wrestle in a straight-in and a 90 outlet.
On the raw water side its an Obendorfer which currently has a 1/2 hose barb. So I understand I just need to figure out what size the NPT thread fitting is on the pump (which seems to be either 3/8 (hard to find bronze ) or 1/2 , and get that fitting with a 5/8 hose barb, then its a straight shot with 5/8 hose to the 5/8 raw water Heat Exch intake fitting.
The elbows are needed on the fresh water pump 1 inch fitting to a 90 degree turn under the alternator to a 7/8 elbow and 7/8 fitting on the Heatxch FW. The 1 inch to 7/8 hose reduction happens at the elbow on the pump end. I read this should be wire reinforced but seems everyone is using normal heater hose which is what is on there now.
https://www.amazon.com/GROSS-MECHANICAL-ADAPTER-PIPE-HOSE/dp/B000FOYDVI
That hose barb isn't a good choice. That picture is incorrect for that fitting. when you find out the NPT let me know - email me from here or PM me on the GIO forum.
You appear to have a newer pump (smooth, flat cover) which would be either an N202M-15 (1/2") or N202M-16 (3/8".) Unfortunately, Ob doesn't stamp-in model numbers and the tag (on a cover bolt) typically disappears.
I like running the outlet hose down to the stringer and up to the HX to avoid the constant PITA interference w/the outlet hose at the dipstick when checking oil level.
The suction hose to the coolant pump needs to be wire-wound. Both the 7/8" (ShieldsFlex 250 series) between the Hx and ell and the 1" to the pump. That hose p/n is in this thread.