Blower fan

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Hugh17

Quote from: fatamorgana on July 27, 2018, 08:45:45 AM
On our MK1, the blower only comes on when the key is on (and the blower switch is on).

My MK1 bilge blower works as indicated, only when the key is on. I really wonder what the Catalina engineers were thinking when they wired it this way. I additionally wonder why they located the blower in what seems to be an inaccessible place to service/replace it. And I suspect that the blower is not protected by a fuse, certainly not from the main switch panel.

Since it's my understanding that the electric fuel pump is activated when the keyed switch is turned on and since this also allows power flow to the bilge blower through it's own switch, does it harm anything to allow the switch to stay on in order to utilize the blower?

Attached pic shows blower located to aft lower side of instrument panel.


James H. Newsome
s/v CaiLeigh Anna
Catalina 34 MKI Hull #299
Universal M25

Stu Jackson

Quote from: Hugh17 on August 12, 2018, 07:31:10 PM
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Since it's my understanding that the electric fuel pump is activated when the keyed switch is turned on and since this also allows power flow to the bilge blower through it's own switch, does it harm anything to allow the switch to stay on in order to utilize the blower?

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Wouldn't the hour meter keep turning?
Stu Jackson, C34 IA Secretary, #224 1986, "Aquavite"  Cowichan Bay, BC  Maple Bay Marina  SR/FK, M25, Rocna 10 (22#) (NZ model)

"There is no problem so great that it can't be solved."

Hugh17

Quote from: Stu Jackson on August 12, 2018, 08:16:23 PM
Quote from: Hugh17 on August 12, 2018, 07:31:10 PM
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Since it's my understanding that the electric fuel pump is activated when the keyed switch is turned on and since this also allows power flow to the bilge blower through it's own switch, does it harm anything to allow the switch to stay on in order to utilize the blower?

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Wouldn't the hour meter keep turning?

I would assume the meter would be running. Catalina must have thought the only time the blower was needed the engine would be running. I would like to run the blower for as long as necessary after shutting the engine off to cool down the engine compartment. It should be a simple matter to rewrite it. One more C34 mystery resolved.
James H. Newsome
s/v CaiLeigh Anna
Catalina 34 MKI Hull #299
Universal M25

Stu Jackson

My blower works with key out.  Always has.  Seems like it should.  Perhaps some PO rewired it.
Stu Jackson, C34 IA Secretary, #224 1986, "Aquavite"  Cowichan Bay, BC  Maple Bay Marina  SR/FK, M25, Rocna 10 (22#) (NZ model)

"There is no problem so great that it can't be solved."

Noah

My 1990 works without the key as well.
1990 hull #1014, San Diego, CA,  Fin Keel,
Standard Rig

KWKloeber

To Hugh,

NOTHING on the engine panel, or engine harness TO the panel, or wiring BACK TO the engine is protected by a fuse. 

It's something that I've hollered and hollered about on here 'til I am blue.  I can post articles about owners who have had a fire or melted wiring, yet I can count on one hand (5 people) those I know who have listened and corrected it (not counting  complete rewires like Noah and Jon.)  AND four of those were because I fabricated new harnesses for them.

Do a search, there's ranting about it the forum!

The reason the blower is live (not thru the key switch) is so it can be run w/o the low oil pressure alarm "blatting" away.

-ken
Twenty years from now you'll be more disappointed by the things you didn't do, than by the ones you did.
So throw off the bowlines.  Sail away from the safe harbor.  Catch the tradewinds in your sails.
Explore.  Dream.  Discover.   -Mark Twain

Hugh17

Quote from: KWKloeber on August 14, 2018, 08:07:31 AM
To Hugh,

NOTHING on the engine panel, or engine harness TO the panel, or wiring BACK TO the engine is protected by a fuse. 

It's something that I've hollered and hollered about on here 'til I am blue.  I can post articles about owners who have had a fire or melted wiring, yet I can count on one hand (5 people) those I know who have listened and corrected it (not counting  complete rewires like Noah and Jon.)  AND four of those were because I fabricated new harnesses for them.

Do a search, there's ranting about it the forum!

The reason the blower is live (not thru the key switch) is so it can be run w/o the low oil pressure alarm "blatting" away.

-ken

I had already figured out that the instrucment panel was essentially direct wired. That's sad, regardless of the age of the boat. Do you know if the power wire for the instrument panel comes directy off a battery or someplace else? It would be easy to at least add an in line fuse.
James H. Newsome
s/v CaiLeigh Anna
Catalina 34 MKI Hull #299
Universal M25

KWKloeber

First, put your engine info in the profile or signature.   It helps us help you.   Otherwise we're guessing whether you are repowered or what engine she has.

Do you have an operator manual for the engine?  They are on the TechWiki site, under the "manuals" topic.

The harness wiring schematic is in there.  BUT whether she has had any upgrades needs to be ID'd --  like trashing the gummy bear plugs on the harness, or trashing the ammeter on the panel in favor  of the voltmeter.  Get familiar with the wiring schematic, it can be your best friend when she doesn't start.

When I do up harnesses, I use a #10awg, tinned copper, weathertight AGC fuse holder, they are tricky to locate -  I get them in bulk.

here's basic info on the harness, and see the electrical 101 on the forum topix.
http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,8406.msg59093.html#msg59093

-ken
Twenty years from now you'll be more disappointed by the things you didn't do, than by the ones you did.
So throw off the bowlines.  Sail away from the safe harbor.  Catch the tradewinds in your sails.
Explore.  Dream.  Discover.   -Mark Twain

Hugh17

Quote from: KWKloeber on August 14, 2018, 03:36:19 PM
First, put your engine info in the profile or signature.   It helps us help you.   Otherwise we're guessing whether you are repowered or what engine she has.

Do you have an operator manual for the engine?  They are on the TechWiki site, under the "manuals" topic.

The harness wiring schematic is in there.  BUT whether she has had any upgrades needs to be ID'd --  like trashing the gummy bear plugs on the harness, or trashing the ammeter on the panel in favor  of the voltmeter.  Get familiar with the wiring schematic, it can be your best friend when she doesn't start.

When I do up harnesses, I use a #10awg, tinned copper, weathertight AGC fuse holder, they are tricky to locate -  I get them in bulk.

here's basic info on the harness, and see the electrical 101 on the forum topix.
http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,8406.msg59093.html#msg59093

-ken

Ken,
I'll update the engine info in the profile, but FYI it's a M25. Originally there was a M25XP, but it was frozen up when I purchased the boat and I replaced with a used M25 with low hours. When the engine was changed out the only changed to the instrument panel area was replacement of the starter push button and replacement of the tachometer from the M25 instrument panel. This was only done because the mechanic who did the engine swap thought the tachometer wasn't working.

I have the manuals indicated but suspect the wiring diagram for the instrument panel doesn't actually match my boat. I have taken a picture of the back of the instrument panel as it is now and I reference it when comparing to the actual diagram.

The blower motor switch is wired from the tachometer connection labeled "ING 14 VOLTS DC IGNITION." I'm assuming this is why the blower power is "off" until the ignition switch in turned on. This is something I'll change by swapping the blower switch power wire from the tachometer to the power wire to the ignition switch. I'll install an inline fuse when I do this to at least isolate the blower in case of a problem.

I also want to trace the power feed to the instrument panel back to its source and install a fuse on it. I don't know if it is fed directly from the battery or from the DC panel, but it shouldn't be too hard to locate. Answering one last question, my instrument panel has a voltmeter, not an ammeter.
James H. Newsome
s/v CaiLeigh Anna
Catalina 34 MKI Hull #299
Universal M25

KWKloeber

James

I recommend you really get into the resources and understand what does what.   The panel schematic wouldn't be in the engine Ops Manual  because it isn't supplied by Universal.  The schematic is of the engine harness, which is what supplies power to the black box panel.  The schematic shows were the power (red #10 wire) originates.

If you haven't done the gummy bear connector and voltmeter upgrades, you are just fooling yourself if you think anything you do will seriously upgrade the electrical system to ANY WHERE it needs to be.

I have panel schematics, but after having done a number of panel refurbs and fabricating new harnesses, the panel was wired by humans, and I found usually not exactly per the schematic.   However, if you just trace out where gauges and lights get their power and which switches feed what, the panel is easy to figure out.  It's "repetitive" so to speak  -- all gauges get power the same way..

Study your resources.

I am just doing a refit to fuse an M-25XP harness, if you want one of those gizmos let me know.

cheers
-ken
Twenty years from now you'll be more disappointed by the things you didn't do, than by the ones you did.
So throw off the bowlines.  Sail away from the safe harbor.  Catch the tradewinds in your sails.
Explore.  Dream.  Discover.   -Mark Twain

Jim Hardesty

QuoteOn our MK1, the blower only comes on when the key is on (and the blower switch is on).

Same for my MKll.  I routed the breather hose to the air cleaner box and always run the blower when motoring.  My hot oil/diesel smell has been gone for years.

Jim

Jim Hardesty
2001 MKII hull #1570 M35BC  "Shamrock"
sailing Lake Erie
from Commodore Perry Yacht Club
Erie, PA

Luana

Thanks to all the contributors to the blower fan issue.  I now have an operational fan! I appreciated the suggestion of rewiring it as it is currently connected to the ignition. I believe it was Stu who suggested a direct input into the air intake. I don't quite have a picture of that in my mind but will do some searching. Thank you all!
Rod
Graylin  #1677

Noah

1990 hull #1014, San Diego, CA,  Fin Keel,
Standard Rig

mark_53

Quote from: Jim Hardesty on August 20, 2018, 05:15:46 PM
QuoteOn our MK1, the blower only comes on when the key is on (and the blower switch is on).

Same for my MKll.  I routed the breather hose to the air cleaner box and always run the blower when motoring.  My hot oil/diesel smell has been gone for years.

Jim

how to you stand the squealing?  Mine makes an annoying sound.

Hugh17

That sounds like a dried out bushing or bearing. Time to replace the blower.
James H. Newsome
s/v CaiLeigh Anna
Catalina 34 MKI Hull #299
Universal M25