Motor mount change question

[stevewitt1]

First of all, I know my search skills leave so much to be desired.  I did a search for "reciprocating saw" and "motor mounts" and only saw references to the use of a saw with cutlass bearing replacement, but I did see one thread reference the need for a saw when changing mounts. I read about changing mounts in the FAQ's but still didn't see any mention of the use of a saw

I think I've decided to go with the K75's  My boat is hull 854 and there seems to be enough vibration.  The engine has 1100 hrs but if original their going on 25 years old.

I'm also hoping to change them, one at a time.

Steve

visit us at www.ocontoyachtclub.com

[Stu Jackson]

Steve, no, you weren't missing anything.  That's 'cuz Captain Al used "saw zal" in his writeup, not reciprocating saw, plus it was in Projects, not on this Message Board.  Here's the link to that discussion, scroll down:

http://www.c34.org/projects/projects-engine-mount-replacement.html

[stevewitt1]

Thank You Stu

I read that(or lots of it, but not all) and just didn't get down far enough. 

Steve

[Kevin Henderson]

This is one of those projects that I would really love to take on. 
I feel way too intimidated to attempt to raise the engine and replace the mounts as Ron described in his procedure in the tech notes.  The idea of leaving the engine in place and changing out the mounts one at a time is very appealing.  However... I'm also very nervous about taking a saw to my perfectly good motor mounts.
This is really one of those times that I would love to see a nice step by step with pictures that Mainsail is so very good at..... Hint Hint     

[stevewitt1]

Kevin

Well, If I change them out, I'll try to document it with pics to share.  Let's just hope it doesn't become a pictorial of "How not to do it!"   LOL

Steve

[Stu Jackson]

Kevin, Maine Sail doesn't do it for free, if you read his website he does ask for donations.  He also doesn't own a Catalina 34! 

Also, that link I provided has some pretty good instructions for doing the work, almost step-by-step.  Ron did a great job writing it up, and the other contributors to that old Projects article added a lot of information.

Is there something specific you need in addition to what's there?

[Joe Holmes]

I can vouch for the quality of the instructions. I replaced my mounts last fall after my boat came out of the water.  Being a contortionist is my best advice.  The only issue I ran into is that one of the old mounts was so badly corroded that I had to cut off the stud top and bottom, and then remove the tab on the engine that it connects to, and drill out the remnants of the stud. The tab is attached to the engine body with two studs.

I followed the advice of using the k50/k75 combination.  Looking forward to spring and trying out the new mounts. 

[Kyle Ewing]

Kevin,

I did this job a few years ago.  I wrote it up, with pictures, at http://www.saildonnybrook.com/2011/04/changing-engine-mounts.html. 

I'm still happy with the results.

[Ron Hill]

Steve : Sorry to screw you up, but the reason I said reciprocating saw because that is the type of saw to use.

"Saw zal" is the name of "Milwaukee" brand tools for their reciprocating saw! 
It just so happens that I have and used a used a "DeWalt" brand reciprocating saw!!

Good luck changing out your mounts. 

[Jeff Tancock]

Don't be afraid of lifting the engine off the mounts........no big deal.  Just tip it so that you do the front pair together and then the back pair together. I used my removable boom Vang as my block and tackle attached to the boom. The main halyard supported the boom from above. Almost effortless.

[Mike and Joanne Stimmler]

Is there any possibility of bending the shaft when lifting the engine?

[Jim Hardesty]

Mike,
Put a line on the outside of the motor coupling, so it will assemble the same, then remove the 4 bolts and slide the shaft back a little.  You need it loose to check the engine alignment after changing the mounts anyway.  I like the idea of changing one mount at a time.  Then snug that mount in position.  That way the other 3 mounts keep the engine close to aligned.  Engine alignment is the skill part of the job.  It's not that difficult, but it's worth the effort to get it right.  The cutless bearing and shaft packing will last much longer.  Now is a good time to check the cutless bearing if it's bad, can't get a good alignment.  Don't forget to recheck after the boat has been floating for a week or two.
Hope this helps,
Jim

[Ron Hill]

Mike : You will not be able to lift the engine unless you remove the 4 bolts that hold the drive shaft coupling to the transmission!!
Depending on how high you have to lift the engine you'll probably want to remove the hose from the exhaust riser to the inlet of the muffler.  That connected riser will pretty much hold the engine in place.

If you haven't installed a flexible hump hose, now is the time to do it while the old hose is off to change the mounts!   A thought

[Indian Falls]

I used an ordinary hacksaw blade to get the motor mount you can't get with a sawzall. You don't need to lift the engine at all if you are sawing the studs on the old mounts. The new K75's are 2 piece so they go into place without lifting the engine.  I did one at a time with the only trouble being the inability to get 2 hands on things. The challenge is re-aligning the shaft coupling. The instructions dictate less than .003" but this seems irrelevant when your running engine is moving around 1/4" in all directions.  I have learned in the last 3 seasons all this movement seems ok as far as the wiring and exhaust components are concerned. Immediately after haul out that season the stuffing box hose and the cutless bearing were replaced and the everything re- aligned. No more shaft log slap at low rpm.  Best of luck. Many of us have tackled this with help from this forum and it really isn't that bad.

[Ron Hill]

Dan : My hat is off to you if you had the patience to use a hack saw blade!!
 
Guess convicts used to break out of prison with a hack saw blade smuggled in inside of a cake,
But a reciprocating saw make in easier and a lot faster!!

My thought