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Author Topic: Rotten Bilge Frame?  (Read 713 times)
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Rick Berman
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Boat Name / Hull Number: TULA / #484
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« on: December 15, 2011, 08:11:05 PM »

Hey y'all.  I  "may" have a problem with a rotten bilge framing member.  Based on the sound of the tapping of  a hammer, it may be separated FRP overlay on both sides of the last bilge frame aft in the salon bilge opening.  I've had one recommendation to drill holes into the frame, let it dry, and then inject epoxy resin to rebond FRP to underlying core.  Another suggestion is to do a core sample and, if rotten, reinforce it in some manner.  Does anyone have any experience with this kind of framing issue?  If I decide to go the core sample route, how might I reinforce it?  thanks for your help!
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Rick Berman on the Tula, Puget Sound (Hull 484, M25-XP)
Ron Hill
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Boat Name / Hull Number: APACHE #788
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« Reply #1 on: December 15, 2011, 09:31:03 PM »

Rick : I believe that a picture is necessary to have us understand which piece you are really talking about.

The best way to take a "core sample" is to get a a plug cutter bit and use it to drill into that piece. 
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Ron, Apache #788
lazybone
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« Reply #2 on: December 15, 2011, 09:42:46 PM »

Its probably the limber holes.  They leave raw wood inside the holes.
I installed pvc pipe in the holes to seal them.
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Ciao tutti

S/V LAZYBONES  #677
Aldo Acitelli,
Garth
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« Reply #3 on: December 15, 2011, 10:05:29 PM »

I learn a new term every day. You got me with limber holes.

"A limber hole is a drain hole through a frame in a boat designed to prevent water from accumulating against one side of the frame. Limber holes are common in the bilges of wooden boats. The term may be extended to cover drain holes in floors."

Cheers,
garth
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Rick Berman
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« Reply #4 on: December 16, 2011, 10:38:52 AM »

I'll send a picture soon.  Basically, it could be any of the framing members that cross the bilge from port to starboard (athwart).  This one happens t be the last one you can see aft when you remove that last floor board.  It separates the "main" bilge compartment (where the pump typically is) from the "aft" bilge comparment. Also, I'm looking for a schematic or as-built drawing on the framing.  Do we have one on the site somewhere?  If not, does anyone have a name and phone number for someone at Catalina who can help?  thanks!
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Rick Berman on the Tula, Puget Sound (Hull 484, M25-XP)
Stu Jackson
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« Reply #5 on: December 16, 2011, 02:25:08 PM »

1.  Do we have one on the site somewhere? 

2.  If not, does anyone have a name and phone number for someone at Catalina who can help?  thanks!

Rick,

1. Not that I recall.

2.  Try this --- Catalina Yacht Factory Contact:  http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,5721.0.html
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Stu Jackson, C34 IA Secretary, #224 1986, "Aquavite"  San Francisco Bay, SR/FK, M25, Rocna 10 (22#) (NZ model)

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Rick Allen
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« Reply #6 on: December 16, 2011, 07:28:17 PM »

Rick,

Rick, this sounds similar to the issues I was having with delamination in the bilge sole plate.  I believe this is a picture of the area you’re having problems with. It shows the limber hole for use with a bilge pump hose.

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Rick Allen
Rick Berman
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« Reply #7 on: December 18, 2011, 09:31:21 AM »

Thank Rick, yes, that's the frame piece. 

FYI that I called Catalina Yachts and talked with Jim McNamara in the engineering department for down in Florida-(727) 547-9814 .  He couldn't find a framing as-built drawing, but he guessed that the framing piece might go 2' from center back either side (tapering off with the boat). 

If the glass is intact, here is his suggestion:

1.  take a core sample, either horizontially from the side or even vertically from the top, using a hole saw of 1-2" (depending on horizontal or vertical). 
2.  He then recommended using those holes to dig out any rotten wood.  Even suggested making a tool that would work to meet this need.
3.  then he suggested what they use is a 2-part high density foam.  he believe you can get this as part of a westsystem product line.  It is a two part syrupy mixture that actually foams up but when it dries, it is super hard.
4.  then repair glass, even adding more cloth if necessary.  be sure to get the air bubbles out, and gel over
5.  I asked him about sistering in another piece of wood, attaching it to the original, and glassing it over.  While he said that could be done, that sometimes it creates more problems because the new piece might not flex with the bottom like the old piece, and that could cause issues.  He said from an engineering perspective that this 2-part high denisity foam is just as strong.

Also, I cam across this in my search:
 
http://westsystem.com/ss/assets/HowTo-Publications/Fiberglass-Boat-Repair-and-Maintenance.pdf

 
Thanks everyone!
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Rick Berman on the Tula, Puget Sound (Hull 484, M25-XP)
Ron Hill
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« Reply #8 on: January 15, 2012, 05:40:56 PM »

Guys : Just another reason to use drippless packing or a billows and maintain a dry bilge. 
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Ron, Apache #788
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