Replacing Main Halyard

[Steve Sayian]

I need to replace my main halyard next spring.  The C34 MK II Manual says 3/8 inch "ULS" (I presume that means Ultra Low Stretch) Low Stretch line and 115 feet long.

Question is, what brand and type line are people using for replacement halyards.

Thanks,

Steve

[SD Diver]

Good question, I am getting ready to replace mine as well and will be interested in the answer.  I was looking at Sta Set.  My spec sheet says 119 feet and I was looking at going to 125 just to have the little extra tail.

Ralph
Ciao Bella

[Stu Jackson]

Don't use Stay Set, it stretches way too much.  Don't use Stay Set X, it's "hand" has been reported to be horrible and it becomes very stiff.  Sampson's line has been reported to be very good, and I'm guessin' that if you do a search on halyards you'll find exactly this same discussion from a recent post.  

I am sure I made a big mistake when I bought StaySet for my main halyard. Not so bad for the jib halyard. At the time, folks were poo-pooing StaySet X because of the hand and stiffness. I still understand it's not a favored choice.

If I had to do it again, I'd get a lower stretch Sampson line. The reason is that in our strong winds here the halyard strecthes and after I use the cunningham, the scallops keep coming back. Stretches even on a reefed main.

[SD Diver]

Thanks for the information Stu.

Ralph

[SD Diver]

I replaced my starboard deck organizer with Schaefer 504-30 2 Over 2 organizer.   This allowed me to raise the turning sheaves to reduce the angle at which the lines go into it at.  I had noticed, as many others have, that the main halyard rubbed on the top of the frame causing you to use far more pull to raise the main sail then need be.  I had discovered that if I stood at the base of the mast and pull the sail up from there it would go all the way up with little effort, but from the cock pit I needed to use the winch to get it “two blocked”.  Now I can hoist the main from the cockpit with the same ease as at the base of the mast.  This saves not only my back, but also the wear on the halyard.  It has also made the tension on the main sheet less to adjust that as well.

Ralph
Ciao Bella

[Garth]

Hi Ralph,

I'm interested in what you have done with the Schaefer 504-30 2 Over 2. Could you please post a photo.

Cheers,

garth

[scotty]

I'm also interested.  They seemed very expensive (+ $200). at Schaefer.  Is there a less expensive alternative?

[SD Diver]

Garth,
I'll get a photo up this week end.  Basically the organizer that is there has a 2 1/4 inch center on the 1/4" X 20 bolts that hold in to the deck.  The new one also has a 2 1/4" center to center on the bolts.  When you purchase the new one it comes with bolts, so I just unscrewed the old one, cleaned the base, put sealent down and screwed the new one in it's place.  I then ran the mail halyard and main sheet through the top set of sheaves and back into the cockpit.  Works great.  The lines go into it almost straight on with no rubbing on the upper frame.

Ralph
Ciao Bella

[SD Diver]

Scotty,
I ordered mine from a local dealer and paid 145 for it.  They put it on with there normal order so I did not have additional shipping, had to wait about an extra week but it was worth it.  Shop around on line and you can find it much lower price then direct from Schaefer.

Ralph

[Steve McGill]

Folks,

For the deck organizers I contacted Garhauermarine.com (they did my original) and purchased the original or old style organizers. Less than $50 each.They knew exactly what I had based on my hull number. It came without screws so I just purchased two new 1/4x20 screws that were 1/2" longer.  I added two on two.

Goodluck,

Steve

[SD Diver]

Steve,
You just stacked one on top of the other??  If it works and takes care of the binding good on you.   

Ralph

[Indian Falls]

It must be time for halyards, I'm using 110 feet of 3/8 Continental Western double braid polyester at 4800lbs break strength. 
If anybody out there has a horror story about Cont. Western, I'd like to know. 

I'm also needing to replace the continuous furling line which is 7/16 or 11mm x 80' (enough for splicing maybe twice).  I'd like to put 1/2 in there if it will fit.  It seems to me 1/2 might have more bite on the worn "dooframice" that it needs to engage when cleated for reefing or trying to let out in the wind.  The manual and the forum call out 7/16 for the 915 Hood.  Please feel free to comment if 1/2 is a bad idea or won't fit.

Thanks!

[Steve McGill]

SD Driver,

Works fine, as I have 3 halyards and my vang thru these organizers on my port side. Sure put the halyards at a better angle coming off the mast base blocks. On many boats you will see where that they have a two on top of three of a three on top of three. Garhauer recommended this to me this as a workable solution.

Steve

[SD Diver]

My first idea was to make up a teak board to put under the organizer and raise the hole thing up one inch that way, then I saw these and went this directinon.  Your solution would have saved about 100 bucks.  Thats one of those "round shoulders, flat forehead things".
I don't have a spinaker or any of the hardware for a spinaker, but I do have a spinaker halyard.  when I replace the main halyard the old one, which is in good to very good condition I';ll run on the port side in place of the spinaker halyard and come down the back of the mast on the second sheave as a standby or back up halyard, or if needed as a topping lift if the wire ever gives out.

Ralph

[claygr]

We replaced our main and genny halyards with Sta-Set X.  I can echo the comments about this line not having a "good hand" but it seems like a byproduct of not having much stretch.  Those seem like mutually exclusive objectives to me - a low stretch line is going to be stiffer and not have as good of a feel in your hand.