Actually, gravity and the fuel shutoff valve in the port cockpit locker did most my work for me. I skipped some of the detail, but it was my impression that the electric fuel pump worked with the key in the on position, not just the glow plug (spring return) position.
I'll try to be more exact here of my steps:
(1) Shut off the fuel line in the port cockpit locker under the inspection port.
(2) Unscrewed the engine fuel filter.
(3) Wiped up about a 1/2 pint of fuel that came out at the same time. There was no addition flow with the fuel line cut off.
(4) Filled the new filter with fresh fuel and screwed it up to the mount lightly.
(5) Had my daughter open the fuel line valve in the cockpit while I unscrewed the filter slightly. When fuel began spilling out the top of the filter I tightened it back up (and wiped up my new spill)
(6) I did not touch any bleeder on the filter mount. I did loosen the knurled bleeder knob on the same side of the engine 1 full turn.
(7) Daughter turned the key to the run position (I'm assuming the fuel pump was pumping). I waited 60 seconds and then closed the bleeder. Then I backed it off the bleeder a quarter turn and started the engine (actually, she started the engine, it's good training).
(
Let it run for another minute or two this way and then closed the bleeder completely
(9) Ran it in gear in the slip for 10 minutes and idled for another 10 minutes.
I think leaving the bleeder cracked 1/4 turn open for the first minute allows more fuel to pass, half of which just returns to the tank. This way if there is any air in the line you should get it out sooner rather than trying to burn everything that is in the line. The two times I've done my Racor, I haven't touched the engine bleeder. I'm no expert though. This brings my grand total of diesel fuel filter changes to three. But so far (knock on teak) I'm batting 1000.
Let me know if you need any other pictures or info.
subject: fuel bleed, fuel bleeding
