Engine Spares for a Long Cruise

[waterdog]

OK.  The Mexico thing started out as a nice sabatical idea.  Now it is starting to look like our depression survival plan.   In any case, putting together a list of engine spares and supplies.   Looking for suggestions.  So far -

Fuel filters - bucket loads of primary and secondary
Belts
3/4" hose - a bunch
Water pump seal kit
Impellers - bunch
Pencil zincs - bushel
Oil filters
Set of injectors
Set of glow plugs
Fuel pump
Alternator

What else do I need?   Starter?  Exhaust elbow?

[Rick Johnson]

Duct tape and Glenfiddich.

[Braxton]

Heat Exchanger Gasket?   
Thermostat?
Thermostat gasket?
Ignition Switch?
Head Gasket?
Oil Pump?
Oil Pressure Switch?

[Ray & Sandy Erps]

That's a good list.

Set of brushes for the starter
a starater solenoid, or at least the solenoid contact plate.
Shaft zincs
Water pump bearings

[Ron Hill]

Steve : A complete raw water pump. That way if you run into pump problems put the new one on and you can rebuild the old one at your convince !!!!!
Head rebuild kits!! (unless your crew is agreeable to using the "Old Oak Bucket"!!

[waterdog]

Steve : A complete raw water pump.  Head rebuild kits!!

Stu told me just to get the seals because nothing else goes...  Should I not trust Stu?  Better question:  How long does it take to replace the seals assuming that is the failure mode?.   Is a lot quicker to just replace the pump?   I'll assume I am dismasted 5 miles off a lee shore nursing my overheated engine to keep me off while the wind is blowing 30...

I've always vowed that I'll just keep buy cheap Jabsco heads for a $100 a pop before I ever rebuild another head.   But somewhere up the Sea of Cortez, that may not be a convenient option and I'm only a day and half away from mutiny if I present the bucket, so I have the head rebuild kit on another list already.   I think it is ranked just above a spare bit of rigging terminated on one end with a Norseman fitting for the other...

[waterdog]

Steve : A complete raw water pump.  Head rebuild kits!!

Now that you mention it Ron, I think we are probably asking for more service out of our head in one year than we have out of our heads in the last 15 years together so, that should be 2 rebuild kits...

[waterdog]

Duct tape and Glenfiddich.

Glenfiddich?  This is the depression survival plan.   i think we're talking Potters...

[karista]

Complete raw water pump (shaft wears and is no longer easily found-seal kit will not help)
Complete engine freshwater recirculation pump. (Can not be rebuild w/o shop presses and tools)
All navigational light bulbs
Precut engine hoses (all required sizes)
Collection of various sizes of PVC/Nylon hose fittings, and SST clamps
Head rebuild kit
Collection of various sizes of electrical wires and terminal kit
Epoxy kit

[Mike and Joanne Stimmler]

WD40 always goes along with duct tape!!
Also cable ties and bailing wire

[Ron Hill]

Steve : Mike tweeked my brain with WD40 so I'd recommend a can of "Turner cleaner" from Radio Shake (helps all electrical contacts).
You didn't mention extra fuel & oil filters.  BTW, if the filters aren't wrapped in a sealed pack here's what I'd recommend.  Spray some WD40 on the unpainted metal and put each one in a Ziplock bag - That will keep them from rusting!! 

[waterdog]

Any other must have gunk?   Strange muffler paste?  Exotic epoxy?  Liquid gasket goop?   

[waterdog]

I see Torrenson has a "Major Spares" recommended list which includes:

Zincs

Heat Exchanger Gasket

Lift Pump Fuel Element

Fuel Filter

Oil Filter

Belt

Impeller Kit

Thermostat

Glowplug

Injector

Sea Water Pump Repair Kit

Complete Gasket Kit


They want $1089 for this kit...   I think I shall go to the tractor store.  That seems like a lot of cash...

[Mike and Joanne Stimmler]

One other thing is that zip lock bags have become invaluable on our boat! We use the ziplock freezer bags in both the quart and gallon sizes. The quart size is just a little bigger than a sandwich bag good for small parts and the gallon size is big enough for the larger engine parts. The freezer bags are a bit more sturdy than the standard bags which is great for long term storage in your tool box or locker. Also you can roll them up so they don't take up much room.

And in addition to all that their also good for keeping food in.   

As you all know,being near the water, it doesn't take long for your cookies or Cheerios to get soggy after you open them. Put'em in a ziplock and their good for a long time and their reusable.

[Stu Jackson]

I'd forget about WD40 and use PB Blaster.

You have pretty good list already.  Much depends on how long you plan to be there and whether you're traveling back and forth.  Using the Import Permit in Mexico will allow you to bring stuff in duty free, or have a friend do it for you.  Much also depends on how long ago you changed, for instance, your raw water pump.  The seals do go and a new shaft is always handy, but it is easier to replace the whole pump - only if you aren't capable of changing the seals.  Much is up to you.  I replaced my raw water whole pump in 1998 when we bought Aquavite, and now see some weeping which means I have to choose to either have the seals replaced (for almost the same price as a new pump), buy another new pump, or do the seals myself.  Them's the choices.

By now, however, having the boat for a while, you should have a pretty good idea of what you need.  In addition to light bulbs for nav lights, for instance, when was the last time you changed the lenses or put new fixtures in?  Only you know that.  I've been working on replacements over the years and now have new bow, stern and steaming lights.  Replace the anchor light with LEDs.

While an alternator's on the list, don't forget the regulator, they go out a lot more quickly than alternators.

An alternator belt tensioner is a great tool. See pictures:  http://c34.org/bbs/index.php?topic=3667.0

And exhaust elbows last five years, depends on when you last did yours.

And get a battery monitor.  As I noted earlier (see: http://c34.org/bbs/index.php?topic=4454.0), my estimate of amps used was right on, but how much goes back in is even more important and I found the acceptance rate of the batteries reduced the final few amps for a full battery to hours of charging, so if you're NOT going to be tied to shorepower at least once every few weeks, go solar (big array) or you'll be sorry. 

Electrical wire and connectors and good electrical tools needed to replace that pesky starter fuse?   The list goes on...

Also, I think I'd suggested George Benson's harbor hopping the coast book and blog log (http://c34.org/bbs/index.php?topic=4533.0).  Makes using the engine even more important and avoids brain beating offshore work.