Water lift Muffler

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Tom Glennon

Having rebuilt the exhaust riser this spring on Slow Dance, my '87 I was delighted when I fired up the engine for the first time and discovered the new pipe nice and tight, and the engine running at about 150 or so temp-wise.  I was not delighted to see the stream of water coming from whan apears to be at the base if the exhaust inlet tube.  I reasoned that after 20 years, time for a new one.

I did my due dilligence and perused the many postings regarding muffler replacement.

When I contacted Catalina parts depatment, they told me it would be approximately two weeks at the earliest before I would receive my new muffler.... AFTER they receive the drawing / dimensions of the old one. 
I was wondering... has anyone used any mufflers OTHER than the Catalina offering?  Also, do you think it would be worth the effort to remove the old muffler, and try a reglassing around the suspected area(s)?

I noticed Ron Hill was apprehensive about this kind of "fix" .... but has any of you others done this with any kind of success?

I just hate the thought of not having a muffler for at least 3 weeks or more.

Your input is appreciated.  Fair winds from Buzzards Bay!!

Tom Glennon, Slow Dance #354, 1987, Buzzards Bay, Massachusetts

Stu Jackson

#1
Tom, timing is just about everything.  Just last week, as previously reported, we repaired our exhaust riser.

Here's what I did with the muffler.  I have considered a Vetus replacement, they make one with a 1 5/8 inlet and outlet.  I think there was a discussion about that recently, do a search on Vetus (I may have incorrectly identified the manufacturer, but I know I used that word (added 5/20/08 - it's "vernalift")).  Perhaps you could photograph your existing arrangement using a tape measure.  What CY is afraid of is making a wrong one and getting stuck - we have to put ourselves in their place sometimes, too.  But they haven't made that many different kinds.

Your hull # is 354 I think from the IA database, so the muffler should be just like mine and Ron's.  If they can't make a Mark I muffler for you without dimensions or photographs, then speak to Gerry or Robert Butler and tell them what you want.

Even after using the Marine Tex build up there remains a slow trickle from the nipple, BUT VERY IMPORTANT I attribute that NOT to the base leaking, but to the fact that I have yet to get the new walls of the lip smooth.  The old original leaking condition really sucked, but the edges of the whole ORIGINAL nipple were SO VERY rough, that the leak was coming NOT from where I thought (i.e. the base where the nipple hits the top of the muffler) but from the really crappy contact between the hump hose and the nipple.  I can live with the small drip we have now until I can get to continuing to rebuild the wall of the nipple, which is still much thinner than the inside diameter of the hump hose.  That's where it may be leaking for you, too.  I suggest you check it out in detail.

The good news?  I thought you'd never ask... :shock:  The nipple is a lot higher than I rememberd, so there's plenty of material there to work with. [It looks shorter in the first picture because of the angle, but I did NOT build it up any higher - it just needs to get a bit WIIIIDERRRR!]

Stu Jackson, C34 IA Secretary, #224 1986, "Aquavite"  Cowichan Bay, BC  Maple Bay Marina  SR/FK, M25, Rocna 10 (22#) (NZ model)

"There is no problem so great that it can't be solved."

Ron Hill

Tom : There's no reason that you can't do a repair like Stu did. 
You might use some 5 minute epoxy which sets up much faster than the Marine Tex.  That way you can build it up with a few layers and then use Marine Tex as the final.  Just make sure to you don't increase the diameter too much larger than 1 5/8" and that tube is smooth and symmetrical when you're finished.
If you don't have a single hump hose now is the time to install one. 
The hump hose takes up the vertical shock so that tube on the inlet of the muffler doesn't take the shock.  A few thoughts.
Ron, Apache #788

Michael Algase

I just managed to find the invoice from my muffler, purchased from Catalina in 2002.

Muffler is Part Number 10946, Drawing 300-54003-1, "Furthest Left" (there are three configurations on that drawing, and this furthest left is the one for our boat).

In 2002: Muffler, 10946, was $220
            Hump Hose, 80648, was 38.38

I may still have the drawing in hard copy somewhere, but if you call Catalina, they will fax you the print for comparison before you place the order.  I asked for "Technical Support" to request the print.

Michael
Michael Algase

Tranquilizer
'86 # 91, SR, FK

RV61

Tom,
On my 86 MK one I repaired with the marine TeX. My leaks we from cracks where the inlet sleeve  meets the box. filled around the base then sanded smooth for good seal. Bought the softer hump hose. It has been 3 0r 4 seasons no leaks. Toughest part of the job was removing hold hard hose. Cut a donought out of old hose with hack saw per Ron's advice then. 
   
Rick V
Interlude
1986 Hull #237
Lake Erie

Tom Glennon

Thank you all very much for the input.

I was hoping to hear this kind of feed-back, as I have been mulling over the repair in my head for the past couple of days.  I hate to be part of the "disposable society", and actually enjoy doing repairs that are really not that difficult, as long as they don't compromise any safety issues.
I do have the hump hose, and, when I installed, I thought it a tad "loose" for the nipple it was going onto.
I will remove tomorrow and thoroughly inspect the base, as well as the diameter of the tube, and go from there.  I will report back as to how I make out.
Certainly will be a savings of both time and $$$, as the new mufflers are now up to $290!

Tom Glennon, Slow Dance #354, 1987, Buzzards Bay, Massachusetts

David Sanner


(I replaced mine because the PO had melted the original and replaced
it with an undersized one... not a good idea I was told).

I agree, I'd go for the fix but I would try to make it as strong
as possible and put some glass in there.... it broke before even
with all that glass.

It's true using a silicon hump hose will remove a lot of stress
but I'd want to make sure I never have to make that
repair again.... I've seen too many of my straight epoxy repairs
snap open. (Your marine-tex mileage may vary.. it'll probably
will work if you really goop it up but .... hopefully)

David Sanner, #611 1988, "Queimada" San Francisco Bay

Analgesic

For what it's worth, on my 1987, # 584, I had a leak from a corroded lower drain and when I removed the muffler the inlet was in worse shape than the above pictures.  I bought the Centek Vetus muffler-about half the price of a new Cataline, smaller dimensions resulting in much easier installation.  Launch isn't until next week so I can't report on how it works yet but it looks good.
Brian McPhillips
Brian McPhillips  1988 #584  M25XP

Jon Schneider

Do you remember which Vetus model you bought?
Jon Schneider
s/v Atlantic Rose #1058 (1990)
Greenport, NY USA

Analgesic

I just checked the Centek web site, I'm prettiy sure it was the Vernalift # 1500060, they have a table and you just match up the inlet/outlet diameters.  They make them to order and I recall mine came in about a week.  I had to order it through a third party, Defender as I recall. 
Brian
Brian McPhillips  1988 #584  M25XP

Stu Jackson

Tom, we just finished a Fleet One Cruise to Petaluma, 17 hours motoring over three days.  Everything held just fine.

Go for the fix.
Stu Jackson, C34 IA Secretary, #224 1986, "Aquavite"  Cowichan Bay, BC  Maple Bay Marina  SR/FK, M25, Rocna 10 (22#) (NZ model)

"There is no problem so great that it can't be solved."

Tom Glennon

Saturday morning I removed the hump hose and sanded the inlet tube and the surrounding area at the base.  I was surprised as I felt the tube, to discover a flat spot on it... probably the leaking culprit!  I mixed up a batch of west epoxy and added strengthening filler, to the cosistency of peanut butter, and lathered the tube, smoothing it best I could, and building up the flat area.   
Returning Sunday morning, I sanded lightly, and reinstalled the hump hose, tightening down all the hose clamps.  I started the engine, and was pleasantly surprised to find a nice dry fit!

I then proceeded to add port and starboard bow cleats... something I have been putting off for a couple of years.  I discovered that my wiring was on the starboard side, not the port that I thought they would be on... and was lucky to not have cut into them.  I used a dremmel tool with a cutting bit.... worked like a charm.
I bought 3"  5/16" bolts to attach with.... drilled, and place an aluminum backing strip underneath.  On the port side, I only had enough exposure to tale one flat washer, and one nut.  Starboard I had enough exposure to have the washer, nut, and additional locking nut.
When I drilled the holes I seemed to go through the same glass/wood/glass sandwich on bith sides.... I am curious as to why the difference in thickness.... the cleats are positioned in the same relative spot  port and starboard.

Tom Glennon, Slow Dance #354, 1987, Buzzards Bay, Massachusetts

Stu Jackson

#12
Stu Jackson, C34 IA Secretary, #224 1986, "Aquavite"  Cowichan Bay, BC  Maple Bay Marina  SR/FK, M25, Rocna 10 (22#) (NZ model)

"There is no problem so great that it can't be solved."

Stu Jackson

Jon, I found this from a bookmark on a previous muffler replacement search.  It wasn't Vetus, it was this:

VERNALIFT, www.CENTEKINDUSTRIES.COM
Stu Jackson, C34 IA Secretary, #224 1986, "Aquavite"  Cowichan Bay, BC  Maple Bay Marina  SR/FK, M25, Rocna 10 (22#) (NZ model)

"There is no problem so great that it can't be solved."

Stu Jackson

Jon, Vernalift is also in the West Marine catalog.
Stu Jackson, C34 IA Secretary, #224 1986, "Aquavite"  Cowichan Bay, BC  Maple Bay Marina  SR/FK, M25, Rocna 10 (22#) (NZ model)

"There is no problem so great that it can't be solved."