"Always On" electronics

[Roc]

Wanted to get ideas on how others have dealt with hooking up items that need to always have power, like the radio memory, tank gauges, etc.  These need to be directly wired to the battery with fuses.  I have my radio memory and tank gauge hooked to the 1-2-all-off battery switch hot wire.  I have propane and CO detectors that I want to connect, but don't think connecting them to the same battery switch lead would be smart.

Other ideas are appreciated.
Thanks!!!

[Stu Jackson]

Roc

You may have remembered my mention of the Blue Sea Power Post Plus in earlier electrical systems discussions.  These are connecting posts that have additional smaller connections just for the application you are describing.  You could also use bus bars.  In an event, you'll have to add a wire from your house bank positive post to one of these and then just land whatever you want right on the power post plus or the bus bar, with only one red wire going the the house bank.  It's simple, clean and works.

[Ron Hill]

Roc : I installed a separate cut off for the stereo and unplug the TV from the DC plug when before I leave the boat.  These items draw current to maintain the station/channel memory. 
The last item I check before turning off the battery switch (and leaving the boat) is the amps on the battery monitor - I want to see 0.00 !!  If I see any numbers I check to see what was left on and shut that item OFF!  I also disconnect the shore power cord at the dock!    

[Ken Juul]

Take a good look at the power consumption of your detectors.  Hunter is currently wiring the CO dector directly to the battery.  I have several friends that need to keep their boats plugged into shore power continually with the battery charger on or after a week the battery is dead.  All are waiting for thier warrenties to expire before they move the power line to a switched source.  Many home fire  alarms are powered by a 9v battery.  Can you find 9v CO/Propane dectectors?  If you are worried about a propane leak I think reqular testing of the propane shutoff valve should calm those fears.  I think the CO should be switched, the boat won't generate CO unless an engine or heater is on, don't imagine either would be on if you are not on the boat.

[Ron Hill]

Roc : Ken is correct, if you don't have your engine or gen set running you shouldn't have any CO to worry about ( unless you're anchored downwind of some that is running an engine).
If you have the propane shut off at the tank, then propane isn't a worry.

In the winter, I pop out the batteries for the Fire & CO detectors.  I do this so I save the "wear" on the sensors and since I'm not plugged in to shore power with the batteries off, it makes no since to have them on. 

You might think about putting a simple inline switch on the positive wire to your propane and CO dectectors and save the "wear/tear" on them while they aren't needed.